Saturday, December 20, 2014

It happened to me: I was in an abusive relationship during my Peace Corps service, and I want to help people love themselves through yoga like it helped me

Give $8 to Help Me Teach Free Yoga Classes in Domestic Violence Shelters!!
Or,
It happened to me: I was in an abusive relationship during my Peace Corps service, and I want to help people love themselves through yoga like it helped me


Hey populace!

It’s been real quiet on my end, and I acknowledge that fully.  I’ve almost been a total recluse since June, 2012, when I got to my second Peace Corps site in Botswana.  A lot has happened.  I was thinking about what I wanted to do for my birthday this year, and I realized: I want to tell people what’s happened, where I am, and where I would like to go. 

Why do you wanna do that?
Because I woke up since June, 2012.  And when I say I “woke up,” I mean that I became aware of how much I have been hurt and hurt myself, and how much love I wish to give.  And I discovered that sharing what has happened to me is an amazing way of making what happened help others.  I was ashamed of my story over the past 2.5 years for so long, and now that I love myself for all of my herstory, including the tough, nasty, horrible-feeling parts that I wanted to push down and out of my heart space for so long, I want to share it so that more people know that the kinds of things I went through are nothing to be ashamed of.  To the contrary, they are things I can celebrate, and try to celebrate every moment I remember that I am alive.

So, what happened?
The short version is this: after experiencing the 2012 Malian coup d’état as a Peace Corps volunteer in the capitol of Mali, and then being the victim of a violent crime as a Peace Corps volunteer in Botswana, I got medically evacuated out of my Peace Corps post, diagnosed with PTSD, discovered I was an emotional eater, and isolated out of shame to tell anyone that I was back home, let alone why.  When I say “victim of a violent crime,” I mean that I was sexually assaulted and in a domestically violent relationship with an abusive partner in Botswana, and finally reported it to Peace Corps.  They got me out of my post and back home, where I realized that I needed to feel grounded again.  I chose to stay in Washington, DC with my dad, get my emotional eating under control (I frequently ate because of how I felt instead of how hungry I was, and it caused me great distress), started a daily yoga practice, cultivated an amazing relationship with the partner of my dreams, and found an amazing trauma therapist.  All of these pieces together have brought me to want to help others in domestically violent relationships feel grounded through yoga. 

Whoa.  How can I help?
By reading what you just read, you’re already making my birthday dream come true.  Read, let it marinate, and share something you learn from it, or the post itself, with others you know, love, talk to, etc.!  If you wanna read more, I have this blog post.  It is far longer than my description of my project on Gofundme, and really goes indepth as to what I've been through, and how I got to the beautiful place where I am today.  So, keep reading for the full story!

Can I help more?
The title says the next step of a birthday gift to me: donate $8 to my Gofundme campaign page here!.  Donate more if you can and want to, of course!  I am trying to make $2,870 to take a 200-hour yoga teacher training (the most basic, beginning teacher training one needs in order to learn how to teach well and not get people injured, get necessary yoga teacher insurance, and get certified to be a teacher who people will let teach at their studio or in their business or organization) and teach 52 free classes to domestic violence shelters over a year (the idea being, 1 class per week). 

Why donate? 
It’s expensive to get trained to be a yoga teacher! It’s not just the fee for the training, which is $2500-$3000; it’s also the books (including ones I bought for a teacher training that I did not obtain a scholarship through), the transportation costs, a nonrefundable deposit from a teacher training I could not obtain a scholarship through, fundraising fees, and the insurance so that you can handle getting sued if somebody gets hurt during a class, which hopefully, they don’t.  But better to be safe than sorry!

Why $8 specifically?
My journey over the past 2.5 years has also been my journey to getting into a daily practice with yoga, which I believe is the most grounding, beautiful part of my life today.  And my journey off of my mat these past 2.5 years aligns itself perfectly with 8 yoga poses, or asana in Sanskrit, that compose the first parts of a sun salutation, or surya namaskar.  A sun salutation is a frequently practiced set of poses in yoga that enable one to bow to the sun, ideally done in the morning. Not only does my name, Akinyi, mean “born in the morning,” but I also have come to salute the light inside of me every day.  So I think it’d be beautiful if enough people could give a minimum of $1 for each “pose,” or part of my story of coming to salute my inner light.  $8 from about 360 people would allow me to go through a teacher training, get insured for a year, and teach free classes at domestic violence shelters. 

Writing and sharing this was my way of straightening my back out before coming down once more into myself, full of love for myself in a forward bend, or uttanasana.  Getting to this monetary goal would allow me to come to the last pose in a sun salutation: to rise, strong as a mountain, back into “prayer hands,” or Namaste hands.  It will help me rise and give gratitude through the gift of yoga. 

Give me the longer version of what’s happened to you.  I wanna know more.
Happy to give details, especially if it might help people understand how difficult it can be to be in an abusive relationship, how difficult it can be to leave one, how hard it is to feel like your emotional eating might be out of control, how intense it can feel to be depressed and/or have PTSD, and/or how difficult it can be to reach out for help:

Mountain Pose, Disempowered: Feeling like the silver lining must be real, denying PTSD, and the beginning of a practice
The first pose in a sun salutation is mountain pose.  You relax your shoulders down your back and open your palms forward, calm, still and strong, like a mountain.  It feels empowering--if you connect with the pose in an empowering way.  This is just like life: it feels great, if you connect with it in an empowering way.  I didn’t.

I started out my Peace Corps service in Mali, and was there only 5 months before the 2012 Malian coup d’état happened.  A close friend of mine and fellow volunteer was stuck with me in the regional Peace Corps house in the capitol of Mali during the coup.  She was also a regular yoga practitioner, and led me through a yoga sequence (set of poses) that changed my life.  I had only done yoga once before, but yoga was literally the only thing that helped me feel better during lockdown during the coup. 

I was then evacuated out with the rest of the Peace Corps volunteers there, and abruptly found I couldn’t sleep more than 2-3 hours per night, even while taking the equivalent of 4-8 Benadryl per night.   I also was intensely afraid of tasks that required any amount of responsibility or potential risk.  I found that I was ordering boxes of “healthy binge-worthy foods” (i.e., “nutritional bars” that I would eat by the 5s, dark chocolate-covered dried fruit, cashew nut butter alone by the ½ cup, etc.) through Amazon and having my dad send them to me in regular care packages.  I felt like I couldn’t stop eating my feelings, and hadn’t been able to since the coup had started, except when I restricted what I ate to try to lose weight. I felt like many of my thoughts were about food, working out, my body and what it looked like, or how afraid I was of people hurting me or me getting “fat.”  It didn’t help that I used to be heavier--when I was 15, I was 228 lbs, and am now about 100 lbs lighter.  I was just fixated on this anxiety loop that began and ended with me hating living.  I mean, how hard is it to love being alive when all you feel you can do is focus on how much you hate being you?

I got to my new Peace Corps site in Botswana and started seeing a therapist and doing yoga more regularly to try and at least sleep better.  It helped.  I started to smile more.  I felt less intense anxiety speaking to people at my site and walking to my volunteering work.  I even started emotionally eating less.  What used to be a minimum of a bi-weekly ritual of eating my feelings, became a once-every-three-weeks occurrence. 

But this funny thing started happening where I started not to give myself space to focus on the negative.  I felt like feeling “bad” was indeed “bad” (I use quotation marks because I no longer spiritually believe in “good” or “bad”--everything simply exists, without judgment until we make judgments, which are not facts and just make me suffer more).  So I put a silver lining on everything and justified everything: “Things happen for a reason”; “At least you still have ____!”; and “What a first-world problem!” became my catchphrases. I denied my anxiety as if that would help it go away.  And it did get better, but it didn’t change what I didn’t yet understand: that I had post-traumatic stress disorder.

Uttanasana: Being assaulted and going inward to a false “me”
The second pose in a sun salutation, after raising one’s hands above one’s head and stretching up toward the sky, is coming down into a full-frontal bend, or uttanasana.  Palms toward the floor and back as straight as possible, we fold into ourselves, thank ourselves, and embrace ourselves before moving any further.  My problem was that I didn’t accept myself as something deserving of love. I told myself that an abusive relationship was what I deserved, and isolated from people I loved out of intense anxiety.  I came inward, but to a “me” I hated, a false “me.”

I met a man who worked at a UN agency operating in Botswana, and we immediately began a relationship.  He was from a radically different culture from me (and also not from Botswana), and I did what I’d begun doing: I justified his abuse by defending him and saying it was a “cultural difference.”  He thought all “really black, African” womyn were ugly?  Cultural difference in learned beauty standards!  He “hated gay people”?  Cultural difference!  He played “rough” with me and hurt me on several different occasions during play-wrestling?  He just doesn’t know his strength!  At least he’ll wrestle with me--he’s a feminist!  And when he sexually assaulted me for the second time in 6 weeks?  He had just never learned consent.  That culture, huh?!  Just not giving people what they need, so it’s not their fault they do ugly things, no matter what they are and how much we can all generally sense how to treat each other with dignity.

Over the course of the worst 6 weeks of my life in this 6 weeklong relationship, I started emotionally eating at least 3 times per week again.  I stopped practicing yoga every day, like I had started doing only 3 months prior.  My life started falling apart--I was walking on eggshells with an abusive partner who even proposed to me within a week of seeing me.  Handling the anxiety, with undiagnosed PTSD, bouts of emotional eating and crazy exercise that drove me crazy, and already feeling isolated as a Peace Corps volunteer in a new place, new country, and second site over the course of half a year?  I managed as best I could, but it was nearly impossible to keep it together.  If it had not been for the amazing people I knew and loved at my site, as well as both volunteers in-country and people I love in the US who I would call and write to, I don’t know if I would’ve been able to be as strong as I was.  A fellow volunteer helped me develop my yoga practice in such a loving direction that I learned how to sequence my own practices (line-up poses in such a way that felt good to do, on my own, using my own ideas and not hurting myself doing it).  She always stays in my heart.

After I was assaulted for the second time, I did hip opening practices in my abusive partner’s house while I debated what I should do: should I leave, or stay?  Hip openers help us open up the emotional junk drawer we stuff our 4 main emotional offenders into: guilt, shame, anger, and sadness.  So I tried and tried to open my hips.  And I finally discovered that I had the strength to act in a compassionate way toward myself for the first time in my life: I reported being sexually assaulted to Peace Corps, and they offered to medically evacuate me to the US to my dad’s place to stay with him and see all the professionals I might need in Washington, DC so that I could get the medical attention I needed to get back to service or amicably end my service.  I left on medical evacuation and came back to the US in May, 2013.
 
Third position: Medical evacuation, still down and isolating but seeing some release
The next part of a sun salutation is bringing the hands up, to the knees, the calves, or fingertips to the floor, and straightening the back, looking forward.  Medical evaluation, a 6-week long process, felt a whole lot like that, because I felt like I could see the light on horizon again, but I was still down.

I saw a therapist 2-3 times per week.  I started seeing a psychiatrist too because I kept having nightmares.  Finally, I understood my troubles sleeping, which persist to this day: I get nightmares, retraumatizations, of what I saw in Mali, once I fall asleep.  Well, the psychiatrist gave me antidepressants and benzos.  This meant that I woke up and took a pill to relax me, and before going to bed, I took a pill to help me not remember what came up at night.  After 6 weeks of seeing a therapist and not really making extensive progress in any given area of my trauma, I continued to take this medication and go to a free program for help with emotional eating while still engaging in emotionally-fueled behavior surrounding exercise and food.  At around this point, I stopped doing yoga altogether--it physically reminded my body of the actions I took in my abuser’s house and presence in general, and the last thing I wanted was to be in touch with my body after what it had gone through.

Do not misunderstand me: I was so traumatized and riddled with anxiety that I thank the Universe for these medicines during this time.  They helped me be able to literally smell flowers and smile again, like I had before Peace Corps from time to time.  But I can personally say that they were a crutch for me.  I needed to figure out what terrified me about what I had experienced and work through it to heal.  Drugging myself for several months, without a therapist to help me work through what had happened, was not a solution.  I also felt like I couldn’t stop socially isolating myself from others around me.  I didn’t want to tell many people I was around because I didn’t know what to say to anybody about why I was there. 

But at the end of the day, I wasn’t at my Peace Corps site anymore.  I wasn’t in the house where my ex-partner had abused me.  I was in my dad’s place, around friends and family from home, and had a team of professionals dedicated to helping me heal.  Some friends I opened up to about what had happened even traveled hours to visit me.  Many people came to my house to keep me company when I just didn’t want to be alone in my head.  I cannot emphasize how amazing it is to have love in your life when you go through hard times.  We all know it, but I feel like I forget how much I matter, even when I’m not consciously helping somebody.  Just a voice on the phone telling me things would get better, could make my month back then.  Heck, at a minimum, it still makes my day!

Forward Fold, Palms Flat: Flat feelings and antidepressants
Next in a sun salutation comes folding forward again in uttanasana, with palms coming flat down on the ground to prepare for push-up pose, or chaturanga Dandasana.  At this point in my herstory, I folded back into myself and my emotions flattened. 

I realized that my medication wasn’t helping when I switched medications and started feeling really emotionally detached.  Nothing felt really good or really bad anymore--it all felt flat, without purpose.  Nothing felt intentional.  Everything was frightening.  I gave my testimony of being assaulted to diplomatic lawyers, and it never became a court case: the police department in Botswana, which had to be addressed in the town he had lived in for 2 years prior, found that there was “insufficient evidence.”  I also got diagnosed with PTSD by the end of my medical evacuation. 

So, after 3 months of not emotionally eating but still exercising constantly, I emotionally ate again.  And then, I decided I didn’t want to feel flat anymore.  I wanted to feel everything that was happening and just see how I did.  So I spoke to my psychiatrist and went off of my medication with her guidance on how to do so safely.

Chaturanga Dandasana: Allowing myself to emotionally eat and almost hitting rock bottom with my PTSD, mixed in with the LSAT
With your palms down on the ground, you either walk back, one leg at a time, or jump back, into push-up pose, or chaturanga dandasana.  If you are able to, you hold yourself 4 inches or so off the ground with your elbows squeezing in to your midline, looking forward.  Well, at this point, I was 4 inches from rock bottom.  I was sleeping patterns mixed with nightmares, and emotionally).  And I was now worried about gaining weight again.

I stayed in my emotional eating program even while I started emotionally eating again.  I wanted to avoid total relapse, without realizing that I was still engaging in emotionally-fueled behavior with exercise even though I wasn’t eating my feelings anymore.  But the more scared and angry I felt, about losing the court case opportunity or my sense of self, the more I emotionally ate. 

I also started seeing a free trauma therapist at the DC Rape Crisis Center, who helped me accept what having PTSD meant in my life.  I didn’t know that people who get PTSD actually suffer on a physical level: you can see the difference in their brains vs. the brains of people without PTSD (check out a great picture of those differences here: http://www.u1077.caen.inserm.fr/files/2013/07/SEME_2_EN.jpg).  And when people get a “trigger,” or a reminder of a traumatic event, two different parts of their brain actually get activated.  It suddenly wasn’t just something I believed on some core level that I was making up: I finally felt like what I was experiencing sucked and made sense.  I had a condition.  It wasn’t my fault that I was so anxious, depressed, moody, and strange around food.  I emotionally ate, cried, shook, slept, didn’t sleep, was paralyzed by fear, had nightmares, all when I had triggers.  And triggers could be anything for me, including high stress situations and loud noises like sudden cars honking, which made me shake because they reminded my brain of the atmosphere during the coup and/or the sounds of gunshots in Mali.

The court case not going through actually further cemented a dream I had always had: to use my people skills and become a lawyer who could help further sexual and reproductive rights.  Cool, right?  But, not-so-cool to study for the LSAT (the examination you must take to apply to law school in the US) while you’re 4 inches from rock bottom.  It was hard to study for and take repeated practice tests that were timed while seemingly constantly getting triggers I could finally identify as legitimate triggers.  The test timing would make me anxious, which would make me dissociate, or intensely checkout, from reality to feel safer.  And then I’d come back, only to have less time to finish a section on the test.  I was constantly getting retriggered, and it sucked.  I left the emotional eating program, and tried to go it on my own, as more of a diet and goal of not eating too much anymore instead of an effort to meet my feelings head-on instead of eating them and stuffing them down, or exercising them away to hidden corners of my body I couldn’t access as easily.

Upward-Facing Dog: Recovery from emotional eating, loving myself, being able to love others, and appreciating my heart opening
From push-up pose, we move into upward-facing dog, where, the tops of the toes on the floor, knees off the ground, palms by your hips and chest proudly opening up, gaze toward the sky, we open our hearts through a backbend to the sun.  My herstory filled with light I could see once I opened my heart through recovery in every sense of the word.

First, I stumbled onto a partner who I’ve fallen deeply, deeply in love with.  I fell in love for the first time, and let myself trust someone for the first time.  He loved me fiercely enough to try to tell me when I was being hateful toward myself, which helped me see which anxiety loops I was enacting that weren’t serving me.
Then, I got a new therapist at the DC Rape Crisis Center whom I was far more honest with than my first one.

Then, I felt strong enough to check myself into another free program to stop emotionally eating, and not only stopped eating my feelings and constantly exercising, but also started following a nutritionally-sound meal plan to regularize my eating patterns (i.e., the times I ate so I didn’t get too hungry, what I ate so my blood sugar didn’t do crazy things and I didn’t get ravenous at random times, the amount I ate so I had a steady source of fuel to live throughout the day, etc.; stopping frequent emotional eating is a long, hard road, and if you wanna hear more about it and where to possibly get help for either yourself or someone you love, please let me know, and I’d be more than happy to help).  Lastly, and most importantly, I started building my self-esteem and truly loving myself for who I was, regardless of my weight. 

I would be lying to you if I said this was not still a daily task.  My default, as I found out with my current therapist and the program I got involved in, was always to mask my feelings with food or exercise.  And to hate myself for bad things that happened to me so that I felt like it was my fault, so that maybe I could control bad things and stop them from happening.  But I can tell you now, I love myself.  I have opened my heart.  This is why some of you have started hearing from me more regularly, instead of a random message or phone call, never to hear back for months, for many of you, most likely, until this blogpost. 

And, the funniest thing happened! I started practicing yoga again once I got into recovery.  And at first, my body recoiled somewhat frequently or I dissociated during poses I had practiced during my abusive relationship in Botswana.  But then, I started to breath.  And my body relaxed.  And my poses got deeper.  It was happening: I could practice yoga every day, and was getting stronger and stronger.  And it wasn’t about working out.  It became a practice in connecting to myself.  And once I connected with myself regularly, I started to breath when I got a trigger.  And then, I could do a grounding exercise.  In other words, I will always be triggered as long as I live.  PTSD does not go away.  But a trigger doesn’t need to be scary.  I can manage them and live a happy, full life with the condition I now have.  And yoga helped me begin to do just that.  Finally, I felt happy to be alive.  It took 2 years, but I arrived. 

So, I decided, I want to teach yoga!  I’d tried it a couple of times in Botswana, and absolutely loved it.  With hardly any experience aside from yoga DVDs I had sent to me during my Peace Corps service (remember those binge-worthy care packages from my dad I told you about?), I led people through poses that helped them feel peaceful, in front of my own eyes and heart.  And I loved it.  And after recovering my sense of happiness in being alive, I had 7 months of daily yoga practice under my metaphorical belt and I wanted to give back to people in domestically violent situations, for free.  I wanted to spread the gift of yoga.  I found a yoga studio with a full-ride scholarship possibility for those interested in instructing survivors of trauma (perfect, right?!?) and immediately started interning there in June of this year.  I then got trained for and started volunteering as a doula in August in Northern Virginia, to help womyn through their birthing processes.  I even started a part-time job in November of this year, my first paying job since my medical evacuation: essentially serving as a receptionist for my local yoga studio, for small monies and free classes.

Then, in the past 2 weeks, after going through the craziness of taking the LSAT in June and applying to schools from September through to early November, as well as deciding to disclose to the schools I applied to that I had a disability (PTSD), I got accepted into 4 of the 9 law schools I applied to!!  Life felt grand.  More on that soon, and where I want to go, but, in short, what a victory!  I got a fairly low score for what I felt I could have achieved prior to manifesting severe PTSD symptoms, and had a reasonable, but not stellar, GPA, and still got accepted into amazing programs.

Downward-Facing Dog: Losing the scholarship
We shift our toes underneath our feet and reach our hips up and back into downward-facing dog, weight in the thumbs and pointer fingers to open the shoulders, looking down and letting the neck release, lengthening through the back and tucking the belly button in toward the lower back.  Usually a pose of incredible lengthening and strength, for me, it was seeing the ground again.

I didn’t get the scholarship.  It was being reserved for students met through the scholarship program’s outreach activities, of which I had not been part.  And I felt like my dreams had fallen apart.  To me, teaching yoga to other survivors of domestic violence, several of whom get PTSD, but most of whom suffer from anxiety-related issues at a minimum, would mean that I had taken my herstory and used it to help others.  And I felt so sad about not getting the scholarship.  And my birthday was coming up.

Jumping Forward: Coming back to a self empowered, being ok with over-jumping or under-jumping and embracing the practice
From downward-facing dog, we either walk, step, or jump back to the front of our mats, feet in-between our hands.  When I jump, sometimes, I over-jump.  This leads to a hilarious situation where I stumble and fall.  Other times, I under-jump.  This means I have to adjust and get my palms in line with my footsies.  In all cases, I embrace what happens, because that’s what yoga is: embracing what is for what it is.  It doesn’t mean I love it.  It just means that it’s there and I accept that it exists.  Just like how I don’t love triggers, I can at least accept that they’re there, and that allows me to handle them in a way that best complements my recovery, right?  So I jumped forward from hearing about not getting the scholarship, to this grand idea.

What if, for my birthday (and for as long as it takes to get enough donations to do so), I got enough people to read my story and donate money to get other people in domestically violent situations free yoga that might help them heal, like yoga helped me heal?  Each donation would be someone saying, I care, and I will help.  What could be better than that for my birthday?  What material gift could give me more joy?  I love teaching, though it has always been uninsured, and, with my lack of official training, at least somewhat uninformed.  But people consistently tell me that my teaching helps them, which is more and more often. 

So, it’d be $2,870.  And 360 people giving $8 for me to teach yoga at domestic violence shelters with insurance for a year?  That’d be a huge gift, to everyone I teach and myself.  I will email each person who donates after one of the classes I teach, about how the class went, which shelter they helped me teach at, and a pose that I dedicated my intention toward in gratitude to them.   If you have anything you want me to say concerning growth during a class, I can say at least a part of that at some point either before, during, or after my classes as well.  I want to bring yoga to people who could use it, as a group project with people like you, reading this right now.

Help me do this.  Donate what you can.  If you can donate more than $8, gorgeous!  Go for it, stardust.  If you can’t donate but love what I’m trying to do, share this story!  Send it to a yoga and/or other site/organization that deals with the stuff I went through in any way, share it on your facebook page (or reddit/wherever you lurk on the interwebz :-) ), share it via e-mail with people you know and care about, share it with people struggling with anything I went through.  We can make the world a better place together. 


If I don’t raise enough money soon, I can take the training whenever.  I just want to donate my time and physical and emotional energy to helping people help themselves through yoga at some point in my life, and before I start law school is a great time to get the 200 hours of training under my belt and get started.

If you have any questions about anything I went through, or just wanna know more, please don’t hesitate to e-mail me or message me about it.  When one person goes through trauma, we are all affected.  I shared this story because it is, in this sense, our story.  Not only am I not alone: everyone who is alive, I strongly believe, is impacted in some way by the things everyone goes through.  When we share, we release the power of shame and guilt, anger and sadness.  We pool our strength and rise, strong like mountains.  We look forward.  We salute our inner lights.  Together.

Loads of love and Namaste!

Akinyi

P.s. For more on what PTSD is, here’s one of many handy sites with a load of info on it: http://www.ptsd.va.gov/public/PTSD-overview/basics/index.asp
P.p.s. For more on how yoga can help survivors of trauma, here’s a site I love that explains what yoga looks like when you work with survivors of trauma: http://thebreathenetwork.org/the-journey-to-heal-understanding-trauma-sensitive-yoga
P.p.p.s. Yoga rocks.  If you gots any questions on how to start up your own practice, send ‘em my way.  I can literally geek out for hours about it with you, I promise.  Feelin’ saucy after reading this and wanna do your own sun salutation?  Here’s a step-by-step guide: http://yoga.about.com/od/yogasequences/ss/sunsalutesteps.htm
P.p.p.p.s. Here is a great explanation of emotional eating: http://www.medicinenet.com/emotional_eating/article.htm

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Listen: Akinyi Shapiro has come unstuck in time.

So, the questions on everybody’s minds at this point, after a notable increase in the amount of media coverage that the nation state of Mali has ever received before, is what this coup d’etat means, why I was there for two and a half weeks after the coup started before Peace Corps volunteers got evacuated, and what I think will happen.  Just a lovely precursor!:
Because the situation security-wise was so fragile, and Peace Corps monitors our blog postings, facebook statuses, and so on checking for any content they deem “inappropriate,” I am about to give you a hopefully somewhat honest account of events, my thoughts, and my worries, after leaving Mali and feeling like I can say more than I would be able to, had we still been there now, during the aftermath of the coup.
So, to begin, I was in Bamako on Sunday, March 18 to be the nerd you all know I am capable of being and getting my upper retainer repaired after 10 successful years of partnership.  Because Peace Corps covers my medical like no one’s business, I could get that work done free of charge over three appointments, and could have gone back to Sikassoville (my regional capitol) on Wednesday morning.  But, being sloppy when I’m out of site-rat mode (I spent a little too much time in site, and a little too much time out when I was out), I figured I’d leave after lunch and not hurry.  At 2:05pm, when I was going to leave the Peace Corps Bureau to catch that afternoon bus, the shooting in Kati, a suburb of Bamako, had started.
Why was there shooting? This is the thing.  I started rereading my favourite Vonnegut, Slaughterhouse Five, during the coup, which was a horrible idea because it started to make me feel really hopeless and angry at war, and a beautiful idea because it started to make me feel really hopeless and angry at war.  So, welcome to my mind:

Listen: Akinyi Shapiro has come unstuck in time.
It’s late March.  People are talking about the military wives.  The womyn are yelling at government ministers saying their husbands were murdered, so many more were murdered than the news said. 
The government says it didn’t know and it’s sorry.  So it goes. 
***
There were a bunch of soldiers that died in late January in the North.  They had no ammunition left and they were fighting the same fight they’d been fighting in the North for decades, and the people they were fighting had all these weapons from Qaddafi, who had died and left a bunch of them weapons as twisted reminders of being apart of some country they seemed wanted in.  The people the soldiers were fighting were rebels, who felt like they didn’t belong in Mali any more, because all of the people they loved had either left for Niger or were dead.  So it goes.
***
The rebels aren’t just rebels: they’re people with feelings and backgrounds and more than their weapons.  But they walked into the military barricade where the soldiers had run out of ammunition and they executed them. 
Correction: people thought they were just shot dead in front of something like a firing squad.  But then they released a video in March cataloguing how they decapitated and castrated and killed them sometimes but other times just left them mutilated to suffer. 
So it goes.
***
In late March, the defense minister comes to the military training base to talk to the soldiers left after the massacre that no one calls a massacre about how much he cares.  The soldiers get angry and stone his car. 
***
“Should I go in a taxi to get to the bus?”
“Maybe you should wait until traffic gets better.  People are trying to flee.”
“Am I safe?”
“You’re more than safe here.  But you’ll have to cross the bridges to get to the CMT station, and too many people are there.”
“Why are they fleeing?”
“There’s been shooting.”
“You were talking about that?  Just now?”
We don’t give enough time to ourselves to talk about bullets.
***
The media hasn’t been reporting anything.  It’s February.  They haven’t been reporting anything for awhile.  More soldiers died, and you learn it from the military wives.  They’re angry, and yell at people in the government.  Now we know that the media doesn’t tell the truth.  But they’re the only people not dieing to talk about people who do.
So we’re losing Malians and we don’t know how many.  So it goes.
***
I walk into the Peace Corps volunteer house to stay the night as a ‘precaution.’  No one says anything more than that.  We can’t walk outside of our neighbourhood in Bamako.  I get shitty white wine with a friend from a local street shop. 
We come back to grow old with our friend the Internet.  The Internet becomes a constant source of too much news copy-and-pasted from too few papers: mutineers, there’s been a mutiny.  People walk outside that night and say they hear so many gunshots.  You see them in the sky sometimes. 
We do an Internet dictionary scrawl for the word ‘mutiny’:
an open rebellion against the proper authorities, esp. by soldiers or sailors against their officers : a mutiny by those manning the weapons could trigger a global war | mutiny at sea.
Is that like a coup d’etat?  And when will they stop shooting?  Why are they shooting?
***
It’s 7am Thursday, March 22.  I wake up to shouting that I should get up.  I run down stairs.  The guards give us rules: no walking outside.  We stay here, we don’t know how long, and we hope that it stops soon.  The shots are so loud, you can hear them through the walls during breakfast.  Just sitting like that, all peaceful, like background music at a hotel.  Boom, boom, who knows where it’s from, who knows who it’s hit, so it goes.
***
“You know, I don’t wanna sound sadistic, but it’d be kind of fun to be evacuated.”  I’m sitting in a forest on the side of my home-stay village.  It’s November, 2011.  Three people look surprised.
“Akinyi, are you serious?”
“Like, just up and have a coup d’etat?”
“I mean, you gotta admit, it’d be like a field trip.  Just a bunch of twenty-somethings at Tubani So (our training site).”
“Yeah, except for the coup part.”
And then we laugh, we all laugh. 
***
The Internet tells us there’s been a coup d’etat on Thursday morning.  The media says nothing. 
“Shit,” we all say.
Boom, boom.
***
“You know, they’re not targeting us,” my friend says. 
“Well, I mean, maybe us, you know.”
She’s black.  So am I.  We laugh, oh we laugh.
***
Who’s ever a safe observer in a coup?  From the house balcony, we can see the gunshots like real time in a Schwarzenegger movie.  It’s like the most random action movie you’ve ever seen: when will they shoot because they’re happy?  What if they’re angry? 
Shots don’t sound different.
***
They tell us they’re shooting in celebration.  It’s a victory: the government has officially been told it’s been failing us. 
One of our nurses comes to the house in a taxi from her own home.  Personal business. 
She says that there are tanks outside and children next to men with guns and they’re shooting and the kids are cheering and she told the kids to go home, and what’s the matter with you, and scolded them because she’s a good mom.
Most of us aren’t surprised.  That’s what Malian womyn do: they take care of everyone.
***
She changes some wounds some of us had had from infections before.  Then she leaves, and comes back with a sack of bread and pates.  She throws them in the house, and she leaves.  She slams the door.  Now, we have food for awhile. 
And we yell thank you, but she’s gone.
***
There’s this big feeling like you need to say that you didn’t see something coming when it’s bad and it shocks you.  That was me the first days and last week of the coup.  And people would say things like:
We knew things were bad.
We knew they were dieing.
We knew they had weapons.
We knew that the government wasn’t all too great.
This makes sense.
And so we came to a hardened consensus of two things:
  1. People should be angry.
  2. No one can fix it.
***
It’s Saturday.  Someone’s moving chairs upstairs.
Five of us think they’re bombs.  I’ve never thought that something was a bomb before.  And then I’m upset, I’m upset because I don’t know why I’m so scared about my safety when I’m not a civil agent being mutinied against.  If the US says I move, I move.  There’s nothing to really be nervous about, unless you’re Malian.
***
Someone else comes every day to give us food.  We make a list and they come with the things on the list.  We eat like kings in the middle of a coup.
So it is that I get angry that they don’t bring pain chocolat one day as the rebels take Timbuktu.  So it goes.
***
One morning the week before all the pain chocolat and all the croissants, an administrator tells us he’s angry.
“You’re angry?”
“I would be in the demonstrations.”
“Really?  Why?  I never pegged you as the demonstrations type!”
“Because these people, they’re ruining my country.”
Mali’s dieing, so it goes.
***
One, two, three, cities falling one by one like culturally significant dominoes. 
We joke about them moving fast.
Then we start to hear about “the Islamists” on the Internet.
One of the only moderate Muslim states in the world!, people say.
And they’re angry, and they’re scared, and we wait for the news to tell us nothing.
***
New flash: Sanogo, the leader of the coup, can’t speak French!
We joke that they picked him after they stormed the media station, just like one potato two potato TAG, you’re the leader of the coup!
But oh G-d, somebody shouldn’t run a country like that.
***
He comes on the television bearing AK-47s slung about him and on the floor, and slurring his French.  Soldiers, who you might think were just regular people outside of their uniforms, are now running the country from what I can only guess from repeat broadcasts is a media station covered with AK-47s. 
What might make you angry is that you’re hearing the fate of your country from the news, which isn’t free.  Imagine what a privilege you have being American: to only talk about the concept of freedom of the press in the abstract idea of a “freedom”! 
Staff have family members in the North, each of them.  They might be dieing.  We don’t know, not because the press has a politically-influenced “slant,” but because the press is not free to say what it wants.
It’s been taken over by a group of people with AK-47s.  So we don’t hear the death count, and hope a reporter from somewhere else watches them die so that they can tell us about it on the Internet.
We wait for confirmations of deaths for weeks.
***
Have you ever seen a gun flare, a flare that traces where a bullet will land?
It looks beautiful.
I think about it when I cry for the second time talking to my dad on the phone.  It’s one and a half weeks into the coup.  It’s the second time and last time I’ve cried talking to anyone outside of volunteers in Mali about the coup.
He asks me what I want to do, and I think about all the guilt I have in my pockets left to dribble on my last memories in my village.  I was too antisocial; I think to myself, I didn’t talk to Salifo the last night I was there because I was so fixated with the scant schedule I had; I never met more people because it was easier to read alone with my puppy.  And I was so—this is a new source of guilt—I was so safe!  And if any one of them was ever held up by a soldier, by the new leaders of their country, new to power, young, and unaware with guns in their hands, would I defend them?
Who is your community?
Who do you defend?  From brute, physical violence?
They would have defended me, surely.  I know that.
But, if Peace Corps stays in Mali, would I be willing to defend them?  Am I apart of my community enough to put my life on the line for them and their country?
***
I wouldn’t.
I’m a coward.
And I think about the flare I saw flying toward the media station.  It was pink and almost quiet, there’s just a hiss and it’s gone, painting itself against the sky, a perfect arch, followed by the bang that needed it for guidance.  Pastels flying through the air.  Quiet enough that you’d have to be looking for it, like a shooting star.
I don’t talk about it like that.
I tell my dad that I’m scared, but I’m ashamed that I’m scared and that I want to leave if everyone else leaves.  Not an exception.  Just a mass acknowledgement that the US waited too long this time.  That my fear is legitimate.  That people shouldn’t think about guns this much.
So I cry when I tell him that I’m scared.  It’s the first time I admit it to anyone.  And that I have to go back to my village to get my valuables: my travelers’ cheques, my passport, my important things.  I don’t even mention saying goodbye to my village.  Because I might be coming back, even if I don’t think I deserve to, the coward I have become. 
He tells me not to lose my head.  And he begrudgingly tells his daughter that she should go to the village only to come back less than a day later, alone, to pack her things and tell people they matter to her.
***
I cry for the third time when he tells me my avocado plant is dead.
So it goes.  The first death of someone I know during the coup.  I have to hang up because I don’t want him to hear me crying.
Silly, isn’t it?  Crying for a plant and not for a people.
But one is abstract, and one is not.
How many people makes a people?  The population?  The borders?  What dividing lines would you use to count a “people” vs. the entire US? 
Because technically, the North is dieing, and the South is just confused, and I haven’t met the vast majority of any of them.
It’s hard to imagine a city in the US ‘falling,’ vs. my friend dieing.
So I focus on avocado plants.
***
The Talmud is a book that has written out all of the opinions of rabbis regarding their interpretation of the “spoken Torah,” or the Mishnah.  The Mishnah is supposed to answer questions about the contradictions that lie in the Torah, or Old Testament.  So the Talmud is special because it’s a whole bunch of opinions about the Mishnah that don’t use Aristotelian reasoning.  That would go something like this:
A is bigger than B, and B is bigger than C, so A must be bigger than C.
Or:
Mali is being run by soldiers, and these soldiers don’t know what they’re doing, so Mali is being run by people who don’t know what they’re doing.
But the Talmud would use logic like this:
Black is associated with white, but black is also associated with houses, so the colour white and houses must have something in common.
It is in my most religious moment, sitting in my bedroom in my host-family’s house during training for my new post in Kanye, Botswana, that I realize:
Coups are based on principles.
People in the north are having their dignity taken away.
Principles and dignity are synonymous.  To have one, you deserve the undisturbed possession of the other.
Coups and being taken from are similar.
No one has created anything.  And so you feel helpless: everything is being destroyed, and nothing is under your control.
***
This is me talking to the medicine man in my village my last night before we get evacuated:
“Eh, mun kera yen fe?” (Eh, what happened over there?)
“Ah, sanji bena na.  I tun hakilila a tun be mun?” (Ah, rain will come.  You were thinking it was what?)
“Tinnena, matarafa. tinnena!  Barisa n tun be Bamako waatimin fen bee kera, n hakilila n be matarafa men yoro bee.” (Honestly, guns, honestly!  Because I was in Bamako when everything happened, I think I hear guns everywhere.)
We all laugh.
And I walk away to get the call.
And it’s telling me that it’s time to leave the country.  I have to be in Bamako on Thursday.  It’s Tuesday night.
And now I’m crying, and I shouldn’t be, so I make myself stop.  And I walk back over.
“Eh, sanji be.” (Eh, it’s raining.)
***
I hold my puppy.  I think saying goodbye to my village will be easy, but saying goodbye to Mariam will be one of the hardest things I’ve ever had to do.
We’ve watched my friend, her sister, give birth together now.
She’s seen me cry.
She’s slept beside me.
And so I wipe my eyes before I walk to her house.
She feeds me, and we’re watching a football game.
She says everyone is fine, that it’s been a long time since I’ve been outside at night, that I should come out more often and we’d be able to have all these great conversations without me worrying to get home to cook dinner.
There’s silence.
I look at her with tears in my eyes and tell her I have to leave, to jamana were (another country).  I tell her I don’t know when I’ll be back, that it might be a month, or a year, or many years, but that I’ll be back.  And I tell her husband that when I get back, we’ll go to his school together, and he’ll cook for me again.
She says that’s good, that we have to go.  A momentary sad glance at me, and she’s fine, composed, no tears.  Always the strong one. 
She walks me home that night.  I hold my puppy and cry.  It’s worse than saying goodbye—it’s feeling like you’ve been said ‘goodbye’ to. 
***
It’s the morning I go to Bamako for my retainer appointments before the coup starts, and Mariam’s maid Awa is pointing me into her husband’s front room. 
Mariam’s husband, a week before, said that I couldn’t marry two to four husbands like men marry wives here.  When I tell him he’ll see, he says that men are the dugutikis (village chiefs) of their families.  I say they aren’t, and that both womyn and their husbands are the ‘village chiefs’ of families, and that that’s the only way development can happen in Mali: if men and womyn work together, as equals.
He agrees.  And I’m shocked.
He says, in fact, that womyn do more work than men, that most men don’t acknowledge that, and that he knows how to cook, since his mother died when he was young and he was the oldest, and therefore needed to cook for all his brothers and sisters.  He says he’ll cook for me one day, when I look surprised at the idea of him cooking.
He says he’ll cook me beans.  It’s a fart joke.  I tell him I’ll eat whatever he cooks, even if it’s beans.
So the morning I’m going to Bamako, I walk into his room, and he’s sitting on a stool, in front of a large covered tasa (metal bowl), a smaller one, a mug with a plate over it to keep it warm, and a plastic bag with a long baguette from the baker.  He uncovers them all like he’s unveiling a mural: a vat of beans, guacamole, bread, and sweet coffee.  And he says, “An ka dumunike” (Let’s eat).
I’m so shocked, I tell him I can’t say anything.  After two minutes of eating in silence, he says, “You know what the trick is?  You cook them for 5-6 hours, and only put in a little oil.  That’s what makes them so soft.  See, most people cook them for 3-4 hours and put in too much oil, and it’s not good, like this.  You have to let them cook for awhile to taste this good.  I learned that a while ago.”
So a man gives me cooking advice in Mali.  The most meaningful interaction I’ve had in months.  I eat too much too fast and then I leave for Bamako.
***
More news, more news!  Two days after it’s occupied, Womyn and girls are getting raped in Gao!
Silly some of us for thinking that good, G-d-fearing people were heading shenanigans in the North: they’ve destroyed the hospital!
A man died in the street, a womyn gave birth in the street, and they’re raping womyn, womyn stuck there, womyn who can’t leave like the Christians who fled Timbuktu.
So it goes.
***
Tonight’s the first nightmare I’ve had in over a year.  It’s the night after I hear about Gao.  An infusion of my own experiences and biggest fears:
I’m being held down by a man in my bed.  And I have no control.
The Talmud would say that rape is a lot like a coup.  There’s no control in either. 
You can’t drink away a coup, you can’t smoke away a coup, you can’t eat away a coup, you can’t apples-to-apples away a coup, you can’t collage away a coup, you can’t talk away a coup.  Time is at a stand still, and you just have to wait.
***
You see, unlike every other time you feel powerless and it might be something within you, something you’re somewhat responsible for, and you can make it better, you can’t make a coup better.
I wake up from the dream and I wasn’t breathing.  I don’t sleep much during the coup.  You sleep in 5-hour shifts, and take naps that feel like whispers.
I sleep in hour-long spurts for the rest of the night and try working out in the morning.  There’s still a coup.
***
It’s two weeks into the coup.  I’m still staying in the same damn house, with the same damn people. 
Our reserves of nice are wearing down.  Uncontrollable situations bring out the worst in people. 
You can count peoples’ vices: this one drinks, this one binges, this one cries in private for hours when they think we don’t notice they’re gone.
But you walk into the bureau and all the staff is resolute.  Our training manager says, “See you guys at the IST!”
IST stands for In-Service Training.  It’s supposed to happen one and a half weeks after we end up evacuating.
A friend of mine and I look at each other.  “I’m not sure that’ll happen,” we say.
The training manager is always smiling.  He’s such a nice guy.
Some of the staff are literally not sleeping for days while they decide with the State Department whether we should stay or go.  Others are in complete denial.
Us volunteers are all losing our minds, and some of the staff are planning a training fit for peaceful nations.
***
Later that night, I tell my friend Danielle about the dream I had.  I tell her because I’m worried.  I feel out of control, and I suddenly realize that that’s my biggest fear, like it is for many womyn who feel like they need to always be on.
She asks me if I feel bad about just feeling pain.  If I feel it’s unproductive, or selfish. 
I pause.
Yes, I say thoughtfully, I have thought it was weak and pointless, inefficient, to experience pain.  I explain that I treat my panic and down points like dust under couches: I’m embarrassed they’re there, but I clean often, so I acknowledge it’s there long enough to make it disappear.  We call it ‘emotional maturity.’
Danielle calls it sad.  If you don’t feel the pain of what happens and skip to just making the bad feelings go away, what have you really accomplished?  Have you really processed anything? 
So I cry.  And I cry, and I cry, and I cry.  And I cry for the womyn of Gao, and I cry for a G-d that does nothing to help them, and I cry for the countless people who’ll die in the North, and I cry for me, and for still dreaming about being pinned down on beds and for still being held in a house in Mali, and waiting for men to stop and waiting for the US to help me, whoever might be able to, whoever sees what’s happening. 
And I accept that I eat my feelings.  And I accept that I don’t sleep at night, and that we all might have PTSD, that we’re all a little messed up now, but most importantly, that it’s okay that I’m in pain.
From my house balcony, over a city that hasn’t stopped running.  Cars still go by, and street vendors still sell bread and beans in the mornings.  And things look fine, even days after the coup they look just fine, but I’ve announced to the world from every fibre in my body that I’m in pain.
***
Two days before we evacuate, it’s Passover Seder in the house.  We’ve made matzoh ball soup, and have loads of matzah—even chocolate-covered—and dried figs and jellies, and horseradish, and macaroons, and vegetable/laughing cow cheese/fat dip, and parseley and salt water and latkes (who follows traditions to the tee anymore?), all from three packages sent lovingly from some of our parents to us in Mali.
Nine of us are Jewish.  About ten of us aren’t.  And we read the whole Seder in English, and sing Dayainu, and some of us scamper off to find the afikoman.
And we eat until we think we’ll die.  It’s all very Jewish.
A Jewish guy mentions that it’s very fitting that we’re talking about making exodus, when we all know we’re about to evacuate and make an exodus of our own from the problems of Mali.  We all have to think about that for a profoundly disturbing moment of silence.
***
I get angry.  Enlivened.  I can’t stand the comparison:
1.  Is a coup over us in any way like slavery?
2.  Why should we be the ones to leave?
3.  Why are we feasting in honour of a preemptive exodus from a place we’d all settled into as home?
I give my own note at the Seder:
“You know, every year, Pessach, like all Jewish holidays, is supposed to be an opportunity for us not only to remember our history as Jews, but to make connections to what’s still happening in our world today that hasn’t changed.  A chance to meditate on and commemorate those still struggling.  And people in the North are being held against their will under laws that aren’t theirs’.  When we say, ‘Next year in Israel!’, we mean to say ‘Next year in peace.’  So, let’s all try and channel some of this energy for peace in everyone’s situation in the North, and may we have peace soon.”
Everyone nods.  It’s a solemn moment.  And then we eat like kings in our own house, no longer slaves, while others become them, a seamless historical switch-off where we win and think about it and they lose.  So it goes.
***
Ladies and Gentlemen, today is evacuation day!  There are four buses loaded with the last of the Americans, and they all rush by anyone who might be press, past their staff, into the airport.  They get given tickets, and, grasping their WHO yellow cards, walk through four check-points, saying nothing, people they’ve never seen before instructed on exactly what to do with their futures.
Some staff board the special chartered flight with the Americans, most stay behind, in the airport, saying goodbye on repeat, broken discs in a broken country.
Each American has two bags—one luggage-size and one on their backs—and maybe a purse.  Almost each American is either laughing hysterically at most points, drunk and saying goodbye, or depressed and self-loathing.  Each American is getting flown out of the formerly-strongest democracy in all of West Africa.
The Americans go marching one-by-one after a one-hour flight into the Accra airport, and give their Peace Corps passports to a trio of airport staff, and walk into more buses with their luggage that was just sitting at the airport check-out, all ready and nice.  And they get off the new buses into a big resort, at night, without any idea where they are, and they’re given money and new cellphone sim cards with credit all ready on them and hotel keys and told where to walk to for dinner at 10pm sharp.
And they eat like they’ve forgotten about ripped-up democracies.  Like they’ve had their great exodus, forty years in the desert, and look at them now! 
New Americans!
***
It’s over a month since I’ve been in Botswana.  My youngest host-sister has a fixation bordering on obsession with Jesus and the ministry television channel.  She’s chanting, silently screaming back and forth with the overly-dressed Pentecostal preacher performing an exorcism.  She’s screaming over and over again until she gets quieted by our older sister, “Come out, come out, COME OUT IN THE MIGHTY NAME OF JESUS!”
I’ve started playing a game: each time she chants, I think about how much worse the coup has gotten. 
“Come out!” – And the rebels crossed the invisible line into the South and the military can’t fight them back.
“Come out!” – And they set fire to one of the tombs in Timbuktu just to desecrate something holy.
“Come out!” – And the counter-coup by elite Malian soldiers failed.
“Come out!” – And the junta won’t hold elections for a year.
“Come out!” – And one of the groups the rebels teamed up with is trying to implement Sharia law in all of Mali whenever it gets the chance.
“Come out!” – And 200,000 people have fled from the North, made exodus, thank G-d, oh thank G-d, but their homes and lives are empty.
“Come out!” – And so many people became refugees that other countries need to “make their minds up about” so fast.
“Come out!” – And a volunteer knows a Tuareg whose house was broken into looking for his blood weeks after he left.
“COME OUT IN THE MIGHTY NAME OF JESUS!”
***
One drink, two drinks, three drinks, ten!  Three hours of rum in my Accra post-evac hotel room turns into an all-night pool ordeal that feels like a high school-party dream.  All the girls are wearing pretty swimsuits and big dumb smiles, and all the boys are a little too eager to talk to them and smoking cigarettes and playing chicken.
Except that none of us are really there.
***
This is the night I find out I’m going to Botswana.  I’m not there.
Physically, I’m in my hotel room with my friend Danielle.  Emotionally, I’m ‘tired.’  Really, I have no energy anymore.  The nurses are given out Zanax like candy: no one’s sleeping, everybody’s anxious, we all can’t tell what we’re running on anymore.  All anyone wants is to get on with their lives, and no one’s sure what their life really is any more.  One minute Mali, next minute nowhere.  So it goes.
They post where we’re going in the main conference room, names, positions and all.  We’d picked our first, second, and third choices from poster paper stuck up on conference room walls, position descriptions scattered on random tables, interviews charmed through in 15-minute slots, and medical exams conducted with professional efficiency I’ve never really witnessed before.  They told us we had all the time in the world: you can pick where you want to go on Monday, or by Wednesday.  Some people pick going home, to either go at an application and start all over again or to just simply start all over again.  I pick a country by Tuesday.
I’m going to be a ‘Community Capacity Builder’ in Botswana.  An HIV/AIDS volunteer working in a clinic or social work office in a country with a 25% adult HIV prevalence rate. 
It’s a dream job for me.  Really. 
I still don’t sleep well.  Womyn in Gao don’t either.  Nor do the four teenagers that will be beheaded soon for vandalizing public property in Kidal.  So it goes.
***
It’s early March.  This is one of my favourite memories from Mali.
It’s four o’clock in the afternoon, and the mango rains have started.  They come randomly, in quick, heavy falls, ten minutes max, and the air sighs after they come.  It really is like the sky is being allowed to breath.  Everything feels beautiful after it rains during hot season in Mali.
And I’m in Sikasso.  This is where rain happens here.  And I’m in the Peace Corps house in Sikassoville, and four of us are just talking on the roof.  It’s sunny, and the floor is tiled, reflecting that light, and we’re sitting on a mattress, and it starts raining.
It’s only rained once so far this season, but it’s raining, and it’s raining right now, and it’s so spectacular, and it feels so good.
And we all walk out from under the awning, and I feel the rain, all barefoot.  And I’m so happy, we’re all so happy, it’s raining, oh my G-d, it’s raining.
And we wonder if it’s raining in our villages.  And we wonder how long it’ll rain for this time.  And in our own ways, we just thank G-d for rain.

I don’t know if this tells what happened accurately, or if it’s even the best way to tell it at all.  But it’s my goodbye to Mali.  I don’t know how I feel about Botswana—I haven’t been able to sleep well or read for very long or write home to people in weeks.  I also don’t know when I’ll go back to Mali, if ever.  I don’t know when or how I’d go.  My Bambara is fading, I find that I’m quickly forgetting names of people I loved and foods I devoured.  People like to call Botswana my ‘cosmic reward,’ for such a hard Peace Corps post, set of experiences, or both, I can never tell.
There’s one thing that Vonnegut says in Slaughterhouse-Five that sums up my experience fairly kindly.  Before I swore in as a volunteer, my friend Michael once said that he loved how Vonnegut just felt like he could start off a book talking about how he’s writing it with a glass of wine in his hand, make that apart of the very first chapter, not even a prelude.
So he writes:

Seymore Lawrence gave me a three-book contract, and I said… ‘Sam—here’s the book.’
***
It is so short and jumbled and jangled, Sam, because there is nothing intelligent to say about a massacre.  Everybody is supposed to be dead, to never say anything or want anything ever again.  Everything is supposed to be very quiet after a massacre, and it always is, except for the birds.
And what do the birds say?  All there is to say about a massacre, things like “Poo-tee-weet?”
***
…I looked through the Gideon Bible in my motel room for tales of great destruction.  The sun was risen upon the Earth when Lot entered into Zo-ar, I read.  Then the Lord rained upon Sodom and upon Gomorrah brimstone and fire from the Lord out of Heaven; and He overthrew those cities, and all the plain, and all the inhabitants of the cities, and that which grew upon the ground.
So it goes.
Those were vile people in both those cities, as is well known.  The world was better off without them.
And Lot’s wife, of course, was told not to look back where all those people and their homes had been.  But she did look back, and I love her for that, because it was so humyn.
So she was turned to a pillar of salt.  So it goes.
***
People aren’t supposed to look back.  I’m certainly not going to do it anymore. 
I’ve finished my war book now.  The next one I write is going to be fun.
This one is a failure, and had to be, since it was written by a pillar of salt.  It begins like this:
Listen:
Billy Pilgrim has come unstuck in time.
It ends like this:
Poo-tee-weet?