Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Listen: Akinyi Shapiro has come unstuck in time.

So, the questions on everybody’s minds at this point, after a notable increase in the amount of media coverage that the nation state of Mali has ever received before, is what this coup d’etat means, why I was there for two and a half weeks after the coup started before Peace Corps volunteers got evacuated, and what I think will happen.  Just a lovely precursor!:
Because the situation security-wise was so fragile, and Peace Corps monitors our blog postings, facebook statuses, and so on checking for any content they deem “inappropriate,” I am about to give you a hopefully somewhat honest account of events, my thoughts, and my worries, after leaving Mali and feeling like I can say more than I would be able to, had we still been there now, during the aftermath of the coup.
So, to begin, I was in Bamako on Sunday, March 18 to be the nerd you all know I am capable of being and getting my upper retainer repaired after 10 successful years of partnership.  Because Peace Corps covers my medical like no one’s business, I could get that work done free of charge over three appointments, and could have gone back to Sikassoville (my regional capitol) on Wednesday morning.  But, being sloppy when I’m out of site-rat mode (I spent a little too much time in site, and a little too much time out when I was out), I figured I’d leave after lunch and not hurry.  At 2:05pm, when I was going to leave the Peace Corps Bureau to catch that afternoon bus, the shooting in Kati, a suburb of Bamako, had started.
Why was there shooting? This is the thing.  I started rereading my favourite Vonnegut, Slaughterhouse Five, during the coup, which was a horrible idea because it started to make me feel really hopeless and angry at war, and a beautiful idea because it started to make me feel really hopeless and angry at war.  So, welcome to my mind:

Listen: Akinyi Shapiro has come unstuck in time.
It’s late March.  People are talking about the military wives.  The womyn are yelling at government ministers saying their husbands were murdered, so many more were murdered than the news said. 
The government says it didn’t know and it’s sorry.  So it goes. 
***
There were a bunch of soldiers that died in late January in the North.  They had no ammunition left and they were fighting the same fight they’d been fighting in the North for decades, and the people they were fighting had all these weapons from Qaddafi, who had died and left a bunch of them weapons as twisted reminders of being apart of some country they seemed wanted in.  The people the soldiers were fighting were rebels, who felt like they didn’t belong in Mali any more, because all of the people they loved had either left for Niger or were dead.  So it goes.
***
The rebels aren’t just rebels: they’re people with feelings and backgrounds and more than their weapons.  But they walked into the military barricade where the soldiers had run out of ammunition and they executed them. 
Correction: people thought they were just shot dead in front of something like a firing squad.  But then they released a video in March cataloguing how they decapitated and castrated and killed them sometimes but other times just left them mutilated to suffer. 
So it goes.
***
In late March, the defense minister comes to the military training base to talk to the soldiers left after the massacre that no one calls a massacre about how much he cares.  The soldiers get angry and stone his car. 
***
“Should I go in a taxi to get to the bus?”
“Maybe you should wait until traffic gets better.  People are trying to flee.”
“Am I safe?”
“You’re more than safe here.  But you’ll have to cross the bridges to get to the CMT station, and too many people are there.”
“Why are they fleeing?”
“There’s been shooting.”
“You were talking about that?  Just now?”
We don’t give enough time to ourselves to talk about bullets.
***
The media hasn’t been reporting anything.  It’s February.  They haven’t been reporting anything for awhile.  More soldiers died, and you learn it from the military wives.  They’re angry, and yell at people in the government.  Now we know that the media doesn’t tell the truth.  But they’re the only people not dieing to talk about people who do.
So we’re losing Malians and we don’t know how many.  So it goes.
***
I walk into the Peace Corps volunteer house to stay the night as a ‘precaution.’  No one says anything more than that.  We can’t walk outside of our neighbourhood in Bamako.  I get shitty white wine with a friend from a local street shop. 
We come back to grow old with our friend the Internet.  The Internet becomes a constant source of too much news copy-and-pasted from too few papers: mutineers, there’s been a mutiny.  People walk outside that night and say they hear so many gunshots.  You see them in the sky sometimes. 
We do an Internet dictionary scrawl for the word ‘mutiny’:
an open rebellion against the proper authorities, esp. by soldiers or sailors against their officers : a mutiny by those manning the weapons could trigger a global war | mutiny at sea.
Is that like a coup d’etat?  And when will they stop shooting?  Why are they shooting?
***
It’s 7am Thursday, March 22.  I wake up to shouting that I should get up.  I run down stairs.  The guards give us rules: no walking outside.  We stay here, we don’t know how long, and we hope that it stops soon.  The shots are so loud, you can hear them through the walls during breakfast.  Just sitting like that, all peaceful, like background music at a hotel.  Boom, boom, who knows where it’s from, who knows who it’s hit, so it goes.
***
“You know, I don’t wanna sound sadistic, but it’d be kind of fun to be evacuated.”  I’m sitting in a forest on the side of my home-stay village.  It’s November, 2011.  Three people look surprised.
“Akinyi, are you serious?”
“Like, just up and have a coup d’etat?”
“I mean, you gotta admit, it’d be like a field trip.  Just a bunch of twenty-somethings at Tubani So (our training site).”
“Yeah, except for the coup part.”
And then we laugh, we all laugh. 
***
The Internet tells us there’s been a coup d’etat on Thursday morning.  The media says nothing. 
“Shit,” we all say.
Boom, boom.
***
“You know, they’re not targeting us,” my friend says. 
“Well, I mean, maybe us, you know.”
She’s black.  So am I.  We laugh, oh we laugh.
***
Who’s ever a safe observer in a coup?  From the house balcony, we can see the gunshots like real time in a Schwarzenegger movie.  It’s like the most random action movie you’ve ever seen: when will they shoot because they’re happy?  What if they’re angry? 
Shots don’t sound different.
***
They tell us they’re shooting in celebration.  It’s a victory: the government has officially been told it’s been failing us. 
One of our nurses comes to the house in a taxi from her own home.  Personal business. 
She says that there are tanks outside and children next to men with guns and they’re shooting and the kids are cheering and she told the kids to go home, and what’s the matter with you, and scolded them because she’s a good mom.
Most of us aren’t surprised.  That’s what Malian womyn do: they take care of everyone.
***
She changes some wounds some of us had had from infections before.  Then she leaves, and comes back with a sack of bread and pates.  She throws them in the house, and she leaves.  She slams the door.  Now, we have food for awhile. 
And we yell thank you, but she’s gone.
***
There’s this big feeling like you need to say that you didn’t see something coming when it’s bad and it shocks you.  That was me the first days and last week of the coup.  And people would say things like:
We knew things were bad.
We knew they were dieing.
We knew they had weapons.
We knew that the government wasn’t all too great.
This makes sense.
And so we came to a hardened consensus of two things:
  1. People should be angry.
  2. No one can fix it.
***
It’s Saturday.  Someone’s moving chairs upstairs.
Five of us think they’re bombs.  I’ve never thought that something was a bomb before.  And then I’m upset, I’m upset because I don’t know why I’m so scared about my safety when I’m not a civil agent being mutinied against.  If the US says I move, I move.  There’s nothing to really be nervous about, unless you’re Malian.
***
Someone else comes every day to give us food.  We make a list and they come with the things on the list.  We eat like kings in the middle of a coup.
So it is that I get angry that they don’t bring pain chocolat one day as the rebels take Timbuktu.  So it goes.
***
One morning the week before all the pain chocolat and all the croissants, an administrator tells us he’s angry.
“You’re angry?”
“I would be in the demonstrations.”
“Really?  Why?  I never pegged you as the demonstrations type!”
“Because these people, they’re ruining my country.”
Mali’s dieing, so it goes.
***
One, two, three, cities falling one by one like culturally significant dominoes. 
We joke about them moving fast.
Then we start to hear about “the Islamists” on the Internet.
One of the only moderate Muslim states in the world!, people say.
And they’re angry, and they’re scared, and we wait for the news to tell us nothing.
***
New flash: Sanogo, the leader of the coup, can’t speak French!
We joke that they picked him after they stormed the media station, just like one potato two potato TAG, you’re the leader of the coup!
But oh G-d, somebody shouldn’t run a country like that.
***
He comes on the television bearing AK-47s slung about him and on the floor, and slurring his French.  Soldiers, who you might think were just regular people outside of their uniforms, are now running the country from what I can only guess from repeat broadcasts is a media station covered with AK-47s. 
What might make you angry is that you’re hearing the fate of your country from the news, which isn’t free.  Imagine what a privilege you have being American: to only talk about the concept of freedom of the press in the abstract idea of a “freedom”! 
Staff have family members in the North, each of them.  They might be dieing.  We don’t know, not because the press has a politically-influenced “slant,” but because the press is not free to say what it wants.
It’s been taken over by a group of people with AK-47s.  So we don’t hear the death count, and hope a reporter from somewhere else watches them die so that they can tell us about it on the Internet.
We wait for confirmations of deaths for weeks.
***
Have you ever seen a gun flare, a flare that traces where a bullet will land?
It looks beautiful.
I think about it when I cry for the second time talking to my dad on the phone.  It’s one and a half weeks into the coup.  It’s the second time and last time I’ve cried talking to anyone outside of volunteers in Mali about the coup.
He asks me what I want to do, and I think about all the guilt I have in my pockets left to dribble on my last memories in my village.  I was too antisocial; I think to myself, I didn’t talk to Salifo the last night I was there because I was so fixated with the scant schedule I had; I never met more people because it was easier to read alone with my puppy.  And I was so—this is a new source of guilt—I was so safe!  And if any one of them was ever held up by a soldier, by the new leaders of their country, new to power, young, and unaware with guns in their hands, would I defend them?
Who is your community?
Who do you defend?  From brute, physical violence?
They would have defended me, surely.  I know that.
But, if Peace Corps stays in Mali, would I be willing to defend them?  Am I apart of my community enough to put my life on the line for them and their country?
***
I wouldn’t.
I’m a coward.
And I think about the flare I saw flying toward the media station.  It was pink and almost quiet, there’s just a hiss and it’s gone, painting itself against the sky, a perfect arch, followed by the bang that needed it for guidance.  Pastels flying through the air.  Quiet enough that you’d have to be looking for it, like a shooting star.
I don’t talk about it like that.
I tell my dad that I’m scared, but I’m ashamed that I’m scared and that I want to leave if everyone else leaves.  Not an exception.  Just a mass acknowledgement that the US waited too long this time.  That my fear is legitimate.  That people shouldn’t think about guns this much.
So I cry when I tell him that I’m scared.  It’s the first time I admit it to anyone.  And that I have to go back to my village to get my valuables: my travelers’ cheques, my passport, my important things.  I don’t even mention saying goodbye to my village.  Because I might be coming back, even if I don’t think I deserve to, the coward I have become. 
He tells me not to lose my head.  And he begrudgingly tells his daughter that she should go to the village only to come back less than a day later, alone, to pack her things and tell people they matter to her.
***
I cry for the third time when he tells me my avocado plant is dead.
So it goes.  The first death of someone I know during the coup.  I have to hang up because I don’t want him to hear me crying.
Silly, isn’t it?  Crying for a plant and not for a people.
But one is abstract, and one is not.
How many people makes a people?  The population?  The borders?  What dividing lines would you use to count a “people” vs. the entire US? 
Because technically, the North is dieing, and the South is just confused, and I haven’t met the vast majority of any of them.
It’s hard to imagine a city in the US ‘falling,’ vs. my friend dieing.
So I focus on avocado plants.
***
The Talmud is a book that has written out all of the opinions of rabbis regarding their interpretation of the “spoken Torah,” or the Mishnah.  The Mishnah is supposed to answer questions about the contradictions that lie in the Torah, or Old Testament.  So the Talmud is special because it’s a whole bunch of opinions about the Mishnah that don’t use Aristotelian reasoning.  That would go something like this:
A is bigger than B, and B is bigger than C, so A must be bigger than C.
Or:
Mali is being run by soldiers, and these soldiers don’t know what they’re doing, so Mali is being run by people who don’t know what they’re doing.
But the Talmud would use logic like this:
Black is associated with white, but black is also associated with houses, so the colour white and houses must have something in common.
It is in my most religious moment, sitting in my bedroom in my host-family’s house during training for my new post in Kanye, Botswana, that I realize:
Coups are based on principles.
People in the north are having their dignity taken away.
Principles and dignity are synonymous.  To have one, you deserve the undisturbed possession of the other.
Coups and being taken from are similar.
No one has created anything.  And so you feel helpless: everything is being destroyed, and nothing is under your control.
***
This is me talking to the medicine man in my village my last night before we get evacuated:
“Eh, mun kera yen fe?” (Eh, what happened over there?)
“Ah, sanji bena na.  I tun hakilila a tun be mun?” (Ah, rain will come.  You were thinking it was what?)
“Tinnena, matarafa. tinnena!  Barisa n tun be Bamako waatimin fen bee kera, n hakilila n be matarafa men yoro bee.” (Honestly, guns, honestly!  Because I was in Bamako when everything happened, I think I hear guns everywhere.)
We all laugh.
And I walk away to get the call.
And it’s telling me that it’s time to leave the country.  I have to be in Bamako on Thursday.  It’s Tuesday night.
And now I’m crying, and I shouldn’t be, so I make myself stop.  And I walk back over.
“Eh, sanji be.” (Eh, it’s raining.)
***
I hold my puppy.  I think saying goodbye to my village will be easy, but saying goodbye to Mariam will be one of the hardest things I’ve ever had to do.
We’ve watched my friend, her sister, give birth together now.
She’s seen me cry.
She’s slept beside me.
And so I wipe my eyes before I walk to her house.
She feeds me, and we’re watching a football game.
She says everyone is fine, that it’s been a long time since I’ve been outside at night, that I should come out more often and we’d be able to have all these great conversations without me worrying to get home to cook dinner.
There’s silence.
I look at her with tears in my eyes and tell her I have to leave, to jamana were (another country).  I tell her I don’t know when I’ll be back, that it might be a month, or a year, or many years, but that I’ll be back.  And I tell her husband that when I get back, we’ll go to his school together, and he’ll cook for me again.
She says that’s good, that we have to go.  A momentary sad glance at me, and she’s fine, composed, no tears.  Always the strong one. 
She walks me home that night.  I hold my puppy and cry.  It’s worse than saying goodbye—it’s feeling like you’ve been said ‘goodbye’ to. 
***
It’s the morning I go to Bamako for my retainer appointments before the coup starts, and Mariam’s maid Awa is pointing me into her husband’s front room. 
Mariam’s husband, a week before, said that I couldn’t marry two to four husbands like men marry wives here.  When I tell him he’ll see, he says that men are the dugutikis (village chiefs) of their families.  I say they aren’t, and that both womyn and their husbands are the ‘village chiefs’ of families, and that that’s the only way development can happen in Mali: if men and womyn work together, as equals.
He agrees.  And I’m shocked.
He says, in fact, that womyn do more work than men, that most men don’t acknowledge that, and that he knows how to cook, since his mother died when he was young and he was the oldest, and therefore needed to cook for all his brothers and sisters.  He says he’ll cook for me one day, when I look surprised at the idea of him cooking.
He says he’ll cook me beans.  It’s a fart joke.  I tell him I’ll eat whatever he cooks, even if it’s beans.
So the morning I’m going to Bamako, I walk into his room, and he’s sitting on a stool, in front of a large covered tasa (metal bowl), a smaller one, a mug with a plate over it to keep it warm, and a plastic bag with a long baguette from the baker.  He uncovers them all like he’s unveiling a mural: a vat of beans, guacamole, bread, and sweet coffee.  And he says, “An ka dumunike” (Let’s eat).
I’m so shocked, I tell him I can’t say anything.  After two minutes of eating in silence, he says, “You know what the trick is?  You cook them for 5-6 hours, and only put in a little oil.  That’s what makes them so soft.  See, most people cook them for 3-4 hours and put in too much oil, and it’s not good, like this.  You have to let them cook for awhile to taste this good.  I learned that a while ago.”
So a man gives me cooking advice in Mali.  The most meaningful interaction I’ve had in months.  I eat too much too fast and then I leave for Bamako.
***
More news, more news!  Two days after it’s occupied, Womyn and girls are getting raped in Gao!
Silly some of us for thinking that good, G-d-fearing people were heading shenanigans in the North: they’ve destroyed the hospital!
A man died in the street, a womyn gave birth in the street, and they’re raping womyn, womyn stuck there, womyn who can’t leave like the Christians who fled Timbuktu.
So it goes.
***
Tonight’s the first nightmare I’ve had in over a year.  It’s the night after I hear about Gao.  An infusion of my own experiences and biggest fears:
I’m being held down by a man in my bed.  And I have no control.
The Talmud would say that rape is a lot like a coup.  There’s no control in either. 
You can’t drink away a coup, you can’t smoke away a coup, you can’t eat away a coup, you can’t apples-to-apples away a coup, you can’t collage away a coup, you can’t talk away a coup.  Time is at a stand still, and you just have to wait.
***
You see, unlike every other time you feel powerless and it might be something within you, something you’re somewhat responsible for, and you can make it better, you can’t make a coup better.
I wake up from the dream and I wasn’t breathing.  I don’t sleep much during the coup.  You sleep in 5-hour shifts, and take naps that feel like whispers.
I sleep in hour-long spurts for the rest of the night and try working out in the morning.  There’s still a coup.
***
It’s two weeks into the coup.  I’m still staying in the same damn house, with the same damn people. 
Our reserves of nice are wearing down.  Uncontrollable situations bring out the worst in people. 
You can count peoples’ vices: this one drinks, this one binges, this one cries in private for hours when they think we don’t notice they’re gone.
But you walk into the bureau and all the staff is resolute.  Our training manager says, “See you guys at the IST!”
IST stands for In-Service Training.  It’s supposed to happen one and a half weeks after we end up evacuating.
A friend of mine and I look at each other.  “I’m not sure that’ll happen,” we say.
The training manager is always smiling.  He’s such a nice guy.
Some of the staff are literally not sleeping for days while they decide with the State Department whether we should stay or go.  Others are in complete denial.
Us volunteers are all losing our minds, and some of the staff are planning a training fit for peaceful nations.
***
Later that night, I tell my friend Danielle about the dream I had.  I tell her because I’m worried.  I feel out of control, and I suddenly realize that that’s my biggest fear, like it is for many womyn who feel like they need to always be on.
She asks me if I feel bad about just feeling pain.  If I feel it’s unproductive, or selfish. 
I pause.
Yes, I say thoughtfully, I have thought it was weak and pointless, inefficient, to experience pain.  I explain that I treat my panic and down points like dust under couches: I’m embarrassed they’re there, but I clean often, so I acknowledge it’s there long enough to make it disappear.  We call it ‘emotional maturity.’
Danielle calls it sad.  If you don’t feel the pain of what happens and skip to just making the bad feelings go away, what have you really accomplished?  Have you really processed anything? 
So I cry.  And I cry, and I cry, and I cry.  And I cry for the womyn of Gao, and I cry for a G-d that does nothing to help them, and I cry for the countless people who’ll die in the North, and I cry for me, and for still dreaming about being pinned down on beds and for still being held in a house in Mali, and waiting for men to stop and waiting for the US to help me, whoever might be able to, whoever sees what’s happening. 
And I accept that I eat my feelings.  And I accept that I don’t sleep at night, and that we all might have PTSD, that we’re all a little messed up now, but most importantly, that it’s okay that I’m in pain.
From my house balcony, over a city that hasn’t stopped running.  Cars still go by, and street vendors still sell bread and beans in the mornings.  And things look fine, even days after the coup they look just fine, but I’ve announced to the world from every fibre in my body that I’m in pain.
***
Two days before we evacuate, it’s Passover Seder in the house.  We’ve made matzoh ball soup, and have loads of matzah—even chocolate-covered—and dried figs and jellies, and horseradish, and macaroons, and vegetable/laughing cow cheese/fat dip, and parseley and salt water and latkes (who follows traditions to the tee anymore?), all from three packages sent lovingly from some of our parents to us in Mali.
Nine of us are Jewish.  About ten of us aren’t.  And we read the whole Seder in English, and sing Dayainu, and some of us scamper off to find the afikoman.
And we eat until we think we’ll die.  It’s all very Jewish.
A Jewish guy mentions that it’s very fitting that we’re talking about making exodus, when we all know we’re about to evacuate and make an exodus of our own from the problems of Mali.  We all have to think about that for a profoundly disturbing moment of silence.
***
I get angry.  Enlivened.  I can’t stand the comparison:
1.  Is a coup over us in any way like slavery?
2.  Why should we be the ones to leave?
3.  Why are we feasting in honour of a preemptive exodus from a place we’d all settled into as home?
I give my own note at the Seder:
“You know, every year, Pessach, like all Jewish holidays, is supposed to be an opportunity for us not only to remember our history as Jews, but to make connections to what’s still happening in our world today that hasn’t changed.  A chance to meditate on and commemorate those still struggling.  And people in the North are being held against their will under laws that aren’t theirs’.  When we say, ‘Next year in Israel!’, we mean to say ‘Next year in peace.’  So, let’s all try and channel some of this energy for peace in everyone’s situation in the North, and may we have peace soon.”
Everyone nods.  It’s a solemn moment.  And then we eat like kings in our own house, no longer slaves, while others become them, a seamless historical switch-off where we win and think about it and they lose.  So it goes.
***
Ladies and Gentlemen, today is evacuation day!  There are four buses loaded with the last of the Americans, and they all rush by anyone who might be press, past their staff, into the airport.  They get given tickets, and, grasping their WHO yellow cards, walk through four check-points, saying nothing, people they’ve never seen before instructed on exactly what to do with their futures.
Some staff board the special chartered flight with the Americans, most stay behind, in the airport, saying goodbye on repeat, broken discs in a broken country.
Each American has two bags—one luggage-size and one on their backs—and maybe a purse.  Almost each American is either laughing hysterically at most points, drunk and saying goodbye, or depressed and self-loathing.  Each American is getting flown out of the formerly-strongest democracy in all of West Africa.
The Americans go marching one-by-one after a one-hour flight into the Accra airport, and give their Peace Corps passports to a trio of airport staff, and walk into more buses with their luggage that was just sitting at the airport check-out, all ready and nice.  And they get off the new buses into a big resort, at night, without any idea where they are, and they’re given money and new cellphone sim cards with credit all ready on them and hotel keys and told where to walk to for dinner at 10pm sharp.
And they eat like they’ve forgotten about ripped-up democracies.  Like they’ve had their great exodus, forty years in the desert, and look at them now! 
New Americans!
***
It’s over a month since I’ve been in Botswana.  My youngest host-sister has a fixation bordering on obsession with Jesus and the ministry television channel.  She’s chanting, silently screaming back and forth with the overly-dressed Pentecostal preacher performing an exorcism.  She’s screaming over and over again until she gets quieted by our older sister, “Come out, come out, COME OUT IN THE MIGHTY NAME OF JESUS!”
I’ve started playing a game: each time she chants, I think about how much worse the coup has gotten. 
“Come out!” – And the rebels crossed the invisible line into the South and the military can’t fight them back.
“Come out!” – And they set fire to one of the tombs in Timbuktu just to desecrate something holy.
“Come out!” – And the counter-coup by elite Malian soldiers failed.
“Come out!” – And the junta won’t hold elections for a year.
“Come out!” – And one of the groups the rebels teamed up with is trying to implement Sharia law in all of Mali whenever it gets the chance.
“Come out!” – And 200,000 people have fled from the North, made exodus, thank G-d, oh thank G-d, but their homes and lives are empty.
“Come out!” – And so many people became refugees that other countries need to “make their minds up about” so fast.
“Come out!” – And a volunteer knows a Tuareg whose house was broken into looking for his blood weeks after he left.
“COME OUT IN THE MIGHTY NAME OF JESUS!”
***
One drink, two drinks, three drinks, ten!  Three hours of rum in my Accra post-evac hotel room turns into an all-night pool ordeal that feels like a high school-party dream.  All the girls are wearing pretty swimsuits and big dumb smiles, and all the boys are a little too eager to talk to them and smoking cigarettes and playing chicken.
Except that none of us are really there.
***
This is the night I find out I’m going to Botswana.  I’m not there.
Physically, I’m in my hotel room with my friend Danielle.  Emotionally, I’m ‘tired.’  Really, I have no energy anymore.  The nurses are given out Zanax like candy: no one’s sleeping, everybody’s anxious, we all can’t tell what we’re running on anymore.  All anyone wants is to get on with their lives, and no one’s sure what their life really is any more.  One minute Mali, next minute nowhere.  So it goes.
They post where we’re going in the main conference room, names, positions and all.  We’d picked our first, second, and third choices from poster paper stuck up on conference room walls, position descriptions scattered on random tables, interviews charmed through in 15-minute slots, and medical exams conducted with professional efficiency I’ve never really witnessed before.  They told us we had all the time in the world: you can pick where you want to go on Monday, or by Wednesday.  Some people pick going home, to either go at an application and start all over again or to just simply start all over again.  I pick a country by Tuesday.
I’m going to be a ‘Community Capacity Builder’ in Botswana.  An HIV/AIDS volunteer working in a clinic or social work office in a country with a 25% adult HIV prevalence rate. 
It’s a dream job for me.  Really. 
I still don’t sleep well.  Womyn in Gao don’t either.  Nor do the four teenagers that will be beheaded soon for vandalizing public property in Kidal.  So it goes.
***
It’s early March.  This is one of my favourite memories from Mali.
It’s four o’clock in the afternoon, and the mango rains have started.  They come randomly, in quick, heavy falls, ten minutes max, and the air sighs after they come.  It really is like the sky is being allowed to breath.  Everything feels beautiful after it rains during hot season in Mali.
And I’m in Sikasso.  This is where rain happens here.  And I’m in the Peace Corps house in Sikassoville, and four of us are just talking on the roof.  It’s sunny, and the floor is tiled, reflecting that light, and we’re sitting on a mattress, and it starts raining.
It’s only rained once so far this season, but it’s raining, and it’s raining right now, and it’s so spectacular, and it feels so good.
And we all walk out from under the awning, and I feel the rain, all barefoot.  And I’m so happy, we’re all so happy, it’s raining, oh my G-d, it’s raining.
And we wonder if it’s raining in our villages.  And we wonder how long it’ll rain for this time.  And in our own ways, we just thank G-d for rain.

I don’t know if this tells what happened accurately, or if it’s even the best way to tell it at all.  But it’s my goodbye to Mali.  I don’t know how I feel about Botswana—I haven’t been able to sleep well or read for very long or write home to people in weeks.  I also don’t know when I’ll go back to Mali, if ever.  I don’t know when or how I’d go.  My Bambara is fading, I find that I’m quickly forgetting names of people I loved and foods I devoured.  People like to call Botswana my ‘cosmic reward,’ for such a hard Peace Corps post, set of experiences, or both, I can never tell.
There’s one thing that Vonnegut says in Slaughterhouse-Five that sums up my experience fairly kindly.  Before I swore in as a volunteer, my friend Michael once said that he loved how Vonnegut just felt like he could start off a book talking about how he’s writing it with a glass of wine in his hand, make that apart of the very first chapter, not even a prelude.
So he writes:

Seymore Lawrence gave me a three-book contract, and I said… ‘Sam—here’s the book.’
***
It is so short and jumbled and jangled, Sam, because there is nothing intelligent to say about a massacre.  Everybody is supposed to be dead, to never say anything or want anything ever again.  Everything is supposed to be very quiet after a massacre, and it always is, except for the birds.
And what do the birds say?  All there is to say about a massacre, things like “Poo-tee-weet?”
***
…I looked through the Gideon Bible in my motel room for tales of great destruction.  The sun was risen upon the Earth when Lot entered into Zo-ar, I read.  Then the Lord rained upon Sodom and upon Gomorrah brimstone and fire from the Lord out of Heaven; and He overthrew those cities, and all the plain, and all the inhabitants of the cities, and that which grew upon the ground.
So it goes.
Those were vile people in both those cities, as is well known.  The world was better off without them.
And Lot’s wife, of course, was told not to look back where all those people and their homes had been.  But she did look back, and I love her for that, because it was so humyn.
So she was turned to a pillar of salt.  So it goes.
***
People aren’t supposed to look back.  I’m certainly not going to do it anymore. 
I’ve finished my war book now.  The next one I write is going to be fun.
This one is a failure, and had to be, since it was written by a pillar of salt.  It begins like this:
Listen:
Billy Pilgrim has come unstuck in time.
It ends like this:
Poo-tee-weet?

Saturday, March 10, 2012

The village can hear you screaming, Or, I guess what you would call a plea for womyn

“If one womyn told the truth about her life…/The world would split open.” – Muriel Rukeyser, “Kathe Kollwitz”

So, a lot of things have been going through my head this (as of Wednesday, March 7!) second month of being a Peace Corps volunteer in Mali.  All of it needs an incredibly important preface, as well as a personal note for every one of you amazing people who takes the time to read my thoughts and experiences here and catch up with me through my written words. 
Personal Note: Peace Corps does a really thorough job of telling us volunteers not to freak you all out.  They, as a 50 year-old organization, know that we go through a lot—of “ups” and “downs” with our jobs here, wondering why we’re here and whether or not we’ll be effective, “culture shock” – which is, I only now really understand, a really viable term for what it tries to capture, and a seeming crossroads with our cultures we came from in the United States versus the culture we are assigned to, to live in, work in, and presumably love, at least enough to want to help it sustainably develop.  If you want to read about the history of the Peace Corps, a good book, which I might have mentioned in my Either you get it at once, or there’s no use trying to explain it to you, Skip post, is “When the World Calls,” a good biased and unbiased look at the past 50 years of the Peace Corps.  It gives a lot of insight as to why the Peace Corps might tell us during our training in Mali, that we “must read, and reread, and then read again” everything we write to anybody, including hand-written letters, e-mails, facebook postings and messages, and especially blogs, before putting it out to you all. 
The big reason is that, some days, I might really dislike some things here, and while that’s completely fair of humyn beings to do—we each go through our own interactions with the world and have different experiences that cause us to like or dislike certain aspects of it, especially when it’s new to us—one of the big goals of Peace Corps is bringing our experiences, insights, and new-found knowledge about these places we’re sent to, home to our friends and family in the States.  And if I call you, even if I really need to, when I’m freaking out and having an emotional breakdown in Ziangolodougou, because of something I’ve seen or been thinking about that didn’t agree with me at all, you’ll be a. freaked out and want me to come home right that instant and wonder what I got myself into, but b. getting a picture of Mali that doesn’t do it justice.  Just think of a really horrible day that you have in the States: you almost get into a car accident with a guy that you swear was an absolute moron, get butted in front of at the supermarket on that one day it seems like everybody just needs to buy something and you end up waiting for what feels like hours, you see a person kick their dog when it wanders off the sidewalk during its walk, and a kid next to you on that day you had to go to the DMV just wouldn’t stop crying, and then someone calls you and asks, “How’s the States?”  You would make them never want to come!  So, I want everyone, as does Peace Corps, to get something out of the incredible experience in cross-cultural exchange and sustainable development work that I am having by learning about Mali not only on my bad days. 
For this reason, I go through my blogs and messages over and over again to make sure that I’m presenting a fair enough view of what I’m seeing, beyond my cultural opinions and biases and really showing you something of a balanced perspective.  Mali is a beautiful country with an incredibly rich history (which, by the way, if you want to cheat and learn about quickly, you can do at the Mali wikipedia page—it’s pretty good).  It’s cultural traditions are varied and studied and people travel from around the world to see them.  That said, “cultural relativism,” or the propensity to say that some things are not universally better than others, but rather culturally “different,” is an excuse for apathy about practices in certain cultures that can be grossly inappropriate.  This post will be about some things I’ve seen that I consider grossly inappropriate on a humyn rights level, though I hope that it is not offensive.  I respect Malian values and traditions to a certain extent, as with any culture, but some things I have seen here are humyn rights violations that must be discussed with others in order to bring about change.  It is in that spirit that I am writing this post now.
Preface: This post, I say, is about “womyn.”  Two things.  One, I have spelled woman/women as “womyn” since my senior year in high school, and forget that I do it pretty frequently because it comes as second nature to me now.  The reason why is because I do not believe that the words “man” and “men” need to exist to construct the linguistically-communicated idea for “womyn.”  Language is an incredibly important extension of how we see our world, and unconsciously—and consciously—reinforces certain cultural values that are frequently outdated.  This is because language has to start somewhere, but, like countries’ laws and precedents, has to evolve to be just.  Thus, our language changes kid of slowly and does not match progress much of the time.  Examples are how Americans still use the term “gypped” when they feel as though they’ve been “swindled” or “screwed,” even though the term “gypped” is a derogatory slur about gypsies.  (Yeah, and if you didn’t know that, by the way, you should stop using it!)  I take language very seriously because changing how you speak is a clearly noticeable way to change your behaviour purposefully that makes people think about their world.  So, instead of saying “kill two birds with one stone,” I say “bathe two birds with one bath”; instead of saying “I bombed that test,” I simply say “Wow, I fucked up.”  And, instead of spelling “womyn” the way I know it “should” be spelled, I argue that it purposefully should not be spelled that way.
Two, I acknowledge that misogyny is not only about womyn.  Gender is a problematic construct.  But that sentence inandofitself is bourgeois and vague, so lemme explain: gender and sex are two different things.  Sex is “what’s between the legs,” or the biological markers that would make you female or male; gender is “what’s between the ears,” or the roles assigned to us based on our presumed sex.  Sex caused me to be born with a uterus and, because I get a period and am fertile, to possibly (hopefully not any time soon) have a baby one day.  Gender caused me to be expected to dress “well,” wear a bra whenever in public, be thin and therefore somewhat attractive, be “modest,” not “be a bitch” or rather just to not be assertive in work situations, and to not laugh too loud or seem too outlandish, or rather, to be a “lady” in good company. 
Gender forces people into one of three categories: male, female, or somewhere problematically in between.  Thus, if you’re a man, you’re a man, but if you’re perceived as having “feminine” characteristics, like speaking softly, with a lisp, being “nice,” dressing a little too well, then you must not be a man: you’re gay—problematically in between men and womyn.  If you’re a womyn, you’re a womyn, but if you wear jeans that are a little too baggy (in the US), have a lower voice, act assertively, speak your mind freely, and look people directly in the eyes when you speak to them, then you’re not a good girl: you’re either gay, a tomboy, or androgynous, scary even, and entirely unattractive. 
I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard from people—and their parents!—“Oh, I had a feeling you were gay.  I just knew it.”  And when I ask what they “know” and how they “know” “it,” they always say, “Oh, it’s just the way you are, you act, you know.  I just knew.”  I.e., I act like a man with my confidence, don’t I?  The answer is always a ‘yes’ without shame—being raised by a man, I project a certain type of confidence that I have come to realize is something womyn are not typically raised to embody: innate confidence without fear of being told to “be a lady.”  Because men don’t ever have this fear, because of gender.   And trust me, some people really hate it.  I got hate mail in university for being “fat” and a “faggot,” have been interrupted rudely and silenced at numerous social occasions—by both “men” and “womyn,” told to “shut up” in classroom discussions in high school without teachers reprimanding students for these words, and know that some people just outright don’t like me for this part of what people see as my general “air.”  
All going to explain what I mean when I say, gender is a problematic construct.  It’s not just about womyn—it’s about a social system that forces us to either act within certain social boundaries and rules or to be perceived of as abnormal, and therefore scrutinized as such.  Furthermore, it makes this social scrutiny acceptable! 
But, here in Mali, gender roles are more rigid than I have perceived them to be in any other place I have lived, the US, Kenya, Brazil, and short stints in South Africa and Vietnam combined.  Thus, when I call this post a “plea for womyn,” I’m calling it a plea for womyn because of how people perceived of as womyn are treated.  I have seen very few instances of people breaking gender lines here, because, insofar as I can see, the social consequences are far greater than they are in the US for doing so.  Really, even to see a womyn wearing pants is something rarely seen (I’ve seen womyn wearing pants less than ten times since I’ve come here who are Malian).  So when I say it’s a plea for “womyn,” I mean that this is a plea for rights regardless of gender.  I’m framing it as a plea for “womyn” in honour of the people I live with here who identify as “womyn” and do not get treated with respect because of this identity.
It ain’t all ‘bout who we call “womyn,” ya dig?
Lastly, keep in mind that the vast majority of my opinions that I hold are based on public health.  If it doesn’t help people be healthy, than it’s bad.  Simple, right?  I think the world would be far better if that were our criterion for bad and good: not religion, not subjective biases, but health.  Because you deserve to be healthy, regardless of who you are.  You should be born in good health, and your health is nobody else’s but yours’ from the day you’re born to the day you die, and something to be respected as such.  It is not a commodity that should be paid for: it is your body, your mind, yourself.  Your health is important, and things should always promote it, because I’ll be damned, if all things aside, there isn’t enough madness in this world working against us all staying sane that you don’t deserve to at least make it to your 70th birthday.

So, to begin!  The quote at the beginning of this post is, I think, one of the most beautiful things I’ve ever heard.  I read it in a book on (get this, it’s kind of crazy to think about) Jewish Orthodox Lesbians and Queer Womyn, called “Keep Your Wives Away From Them: Orthodox Women, Unorthodox Desires.”  I cried when I read it.  It’s been used as a kind of feminist anthem, and there are loads of reasons why.  First being, womyn create people.  They definitely do it with the invaluable asset of men’s help in conception, but afterwards, it’s called “delivery” because they effing deliver people to the world  Womyn are incredibly powerful types of people, even when they can’t give birth/choose not to.  But women, for the perceived role of giving birth, are treated like baby machines and emotionally fragile parts of our species that are too connected to child-bearing and feelings that children and womyn supposedly only have.  And while it’s easy to see that that’s ridiculous when it’s spelled out all simply and plain like that, it’s less easy to see how little we actually listen to womyn and their lives and ideas and truths.  It’s for this reason that I think the quote is so profound: we even just one womyn told herself, G-d, can you imagine how powerful it would be to hear?  If everyone were listening with the respect she deserved?  If a part of a species that is frequently belittled and considered lesser-than could have one moment of our time to talk about what they’ve seen, how much would we learn and what would we say afterward?  My G-d, the world might split open!  Those words, that noise could break our perspectives down.  And this quote really came home to me when I witnessed my first two births in site this past month.  Coming back to that soon.
So, there’s this phrase in French called “chosification.”  I love it.  It translates directly as “thing-ification.”  We have a word for this is English—it’s “subjectification,” or the making of something into a subject instead of a living thing.  I like “chosification” better, because “subject” is a really nice word for what you do when you thing-ify something: you make it into a “thing,” a “play thing,” “your thing,” whatever “thing” you want it to be.  We do this with womyn.  We “thing-ify” them, make them into malleable objects that can be held up to standards that inanimate things usually are: this womyn is “good,” “not good enough,” I need “a better one,” she’s “cheap,” she’s “fancy,” she’s “used up.”
Now, I know we all hold everyone to certain standards, men included. The difference is in how strictly we perceive of those standards.  I.e., I expect men to be “chivalrous” sometimes, but the reality is, even if a man isn’t “chivalrous” or seen as “well-meaning,” I’ll listen to him in any conversation over a womyn and most likely take him more seriously.  This is something I’ve come to terms with gradually in order to change it within myself.  It is important to acknowledge: we are taught from childhood that men have more social value than womyn, and therefore are allowed to say more and expected to say better, more sensible things.  And that’s why they get paid more for the same work, and higher positions than womyn with the same merits and experience.  When a womyn doesn’t act “like a womyn should,” wow, do we all talk about it behind her back!  She’s a thing to be scrutinized—if she’s not “acting right,” she’s kind of “broken,” isn’t she? 
And it’s something to talk about.  She needs to “act right,” and G-d forbid if anything happens to her, but a lot of the time, she was just “asking for it,” be it that demotion, losing her job, losing custody of her children, getting sexually harassed, or, again, G-d forbid, getting sexually assaulted.  In my work I have done (places listed below, and if you ever think about making donations anywhere, feel free to shoot any one of these organizations a call and ask how you can help, either with your time or money—they’re all awesome and do great things!), in sexual assault, domestic violence, sexual health education, and restraining order assistance, I’ve seen all types of victim-blaming and womyn-hating for things that are not womyns’ fault. 
Case in point: womyn can wear whatever they want.  People shouldn’t rape them.  Womyn who wear certain things, walk alone at night, take a shower, do anything, do not “deserve” to or “ask” to get raped.  That’s ridiculous.  No.  Rapists shouldn’t rape people.  Where have we gotten to in our society’s consciousness where rapists are considered to not be at fault?  It’s disgusting, and should give us all considerable pause.  Rape is a war against womyn that says, “This is your place—stay in it.”  It does not need to be done to every womyn for her to know her “place.”  That is why it is a war that has continued for so long—it’s private and shameful, and therefore a war that’s not discussed even though it happens all the time and therefore does not make perpetrators suffer great losses most of the time (except a loss of dignity, but that’s nothing near what rapists deserve as punishment for their crime), and it’s incredibly effective in maintaining a social hierarchy that exalts perceived masculinity, and that makes masculine people happy.  But I digress.
In studies where people in management situations are described as telling people how it is and firing people when they need to, as well as being straight-forward and attentive to rules, when described as men, they are described by participants as “assertive,” and when described as womyn, for the same actions, they are described as “bitchy” and “aggressive.”  These responses come from social conditioning that starts young for seeing the social value of womyn as lesser than men.  In the US, it starts when boys answer most of the questions in classrooms and girls who do the same are seen as “gross,” “nerdy,” “weird,” and “ugly.”  It continues as girls who aren’t stick-thin and subscribe to standards of beauty are seen as “cows,” various other animals, and rendered basically invisible.  As girls who study a lot are as well.  And eventually, it becomes the big question everyone asks me, as soon as I tell them I have a job: “So, are you seeing anybody?”  (Never mind that I’m leaving the country for two years and it’d be a little strange if I just up and decided to start “seeing somebody” right before I left, or even keep it going, arguably)  Because the job isn’t enough—the social validation comes when this pretty girl who’s doing some good things finds a good (Jewish) boy!
In Mali, there is also social conditioning protocol.  And it might just be because I’m culturally biased to think that our conditioning is not extreme—when, I must reinforce, it is, if it renders anyone less of a person and more a “thing” than others—but I see the social conditioning surrounding gender in Mali to be incredibly extreme, and even would venture so far as to call it dangerous.
It started a couple weeks before I left for Mali.  In October, Newsweek did an article on the “Top 10 Best and Worst Countries for Womyn,” and Mali turned up as 5th worst.  There were three major reasons I can remember why:
  1. Legislation brought up (not even passed) in 2007 to allow womyn basically to not follow their husbands’ decisions caused riots by both men and womyn throughout Mali.
  2. (I think this was reason #2, but maybe it’s just another obvious reason) Literacy rates are at 33% across the country, but womyn do not go to school nearly as much or as long as men do.  Case in point: a volunteer told us during training that when a man she was working with in her village said that womyn were going to school now, he cited an example of 6 womyn in a class of over 30.  This segues into a considerable lack of female leadership in the country, from lawyers to government and so on, in any jobs that make good, stable money.
  3. Female Genital Mutilation is performed on 96% of womyn in Mali.
Now, point 3 needs a little explanation.  Female Genital Mutilation, referred to as “FGM” in short by people in humyn rights work, and “female circumcision” by others who argue that FGM is a cultural practice and not mutilation, happens in 3 different ways.  There is the “least severe,” which is the partial or total removal of the clitoris; “excision,” which is the total removal of the clitoris and partial or total removal of the inner labia; and “infibulation,” the “most severe,” which is the total removal of the clitoris, inner labia, part or all of the outer labia, and frequently, the sewing up of the vagina to allow for the space of a matchstick to remain open, intended to be “broken in” or ripped open by the womyn’s first sexual experience with her husband.  Excision is what 96% of womyn experience in Mali; thus, it can be assumed, in the vast majority of cases, that most womyn in Mali that I meet have undergone this ‘procedure.’ 
Note: I am painfully aware that this conversation thing-ifies Malian womyns’ bodies as if I am discussing animals’ bodies.  This is why this is most likely the only post I will write at all addressing FGM: it’s incredibly important to discuss, but if you’re not apart of the culture that largely practices it and are looking in, you end up discussing what has happened and should happen to womyns’ bodies without them frequently being present in those conversations, and that is wrong.  So, I apologize sincerely if this comes across as an insensitive way to discuss it.  It just must be explained to discuss the ways in which I have observed it might affect gender relations and health in Mali. 
Who doesn’t experience FGM?  Mostly womyn in more affluent relationships, who are also frequently the only wife in their marriage (as I mentioned in my second post in Mali, polygamy is a common practice here, and men usually have 2-4 wives, and it is customary linguistically for you to ask “how many wives he has,” and only to ask a womyn if she is married).  Also, womyn do not experience it in villages where the practice has been addressed by Malian NGOs against it and stopped.  There are villages where excision doesn’t take place—supposedly my village is one where it happens far less frequently now than before—and there are Malians who do not believe that FGM is a legitimate practice.  And there are several reasons why it is definitively not a legitimate practice:
  1. The clitoris is more sensitive than any other part on the humyn body, male or female.  It is incredibly sensitive, and frequently the main way womyn reach orgasm during sexual activity.  Removing it is inhumane.
  2. Because of the practice of polygamy and the cultural ideal of womyn having as many children as possible so as to “stay in favour” with their husbands, womyn have the capacity for significant pleasure taken away from them and are then culturally and socially pressured into having several children, and therefore having a lot of sexual interactions, with their husbands when it is “their turn.”  One must ask if these sexual interactions are truly consensual for womyn who, as Malian midwife Monique puts it in the book “Monique in the Mango Rains,” do not experience “pleasure as great as a man’s.”
  3. It occurs when womyn are girls.  By “girls,” I mean 5-10 years-old.  There are lots of things we do to children without giving them a choice: we send them to school, frequently make them go to religious centers regularly or at least semi-regularly, and make them eat vegetables.  But these are all things they can stop doing at some point if they please.  Nobody can give people their clitorises back.
  4. It’s bad for womyns’ health.  This is my main point I emphasize in Mali.  I have now seen 2 births, which I’ll talk about, again, in a second, and have seen first hand as well as read about womyns’ birthing experiences in Mali who have been subject to FGM: it makes birth harder and more dangerous.  And in a country where the average womyn gives birth to 6-7 children, and the maternal mortality rate is 1 in 12 births, it is of the utmost importance that everything that can possibly get done in Mali happens so that womyn stop dieing.  FGM, thus, needs to stop.
Now, I never talk about FGM in Mali unless it is with my homologue Diakaliah or my matrone Mariam, who is now officially my bffl.  And only when they bring it up.  It is a practice that people regard as religiously sanctioned in the Quran (religious book in Islam, as the bible is in Christianity) and, more frequently, something that “makes womyn good wives.”  It is not sanctioned in the Quran—Saudi Arabians do not practice FGM, FYI—and the idea that it “makes womyn good wives” in a primarily polygamous society means that womyn who experience great sexual pleasure will stray from their husbands, and that while men can have many wives, womyn must only have one partner, remain “faithful” to that one partner (though men with many wives are “faithful” because they are married), and have their children.
Regardless of reasons, I know that most Malians (maybe ¾) respect FGM and think that it is a good thing.  And old, respected womyn in villages are the ones who perform it on girls.  It’s not as clear-cut as you would think—when womyn are doing this practice to womyn, the gray area in how to stop it is vast.  And, the movement must come from within Mali.  I have absolutely no place in talking about it outside of a health context, because I am a health volunteer, and not a cultural imperialist, coming to peoples’ homes and telling them their centuries’ old traditions are wrong.  Malians are living in a culturally rich and promising country, and lots of things are happening here that show the beginnings of true development that will last.  Malians should be concerned that FGM is happening, and stop it.  I have no place in that struggle other than to affirm Malians whose opinions go against the practice and encourage them to do all the work they can to stop it. 
Also, if FGM enrages you, I would encourage you to put that energy to amazing use and check out the following Malian NGOs working against FGM:
-"Aid for the Development of Traditional Medicine"/Aidemet
-Plan Mali (They did work in my village)
And I’ll add more to this list after my next big training when I meet with more volunteers to discuss efforts in their communities that they’ve seen as well.
This website is a great place to learn more and support a good group too: http://www.stopexcision.net/about_fgm.htm

Anyways, like I said, big reasons why Newsweek named it the 5th worst country for womyn. 
Now, there are other reasons, and things I have seen, that make me believe Newsweek.  Just to say beforehand, there is a Gender and Development volunteer committee that I’m going to get involved in after my next month of service, when my real work begins here.  That committee is a bunch of individuals dedicated to gender being less screwed up in Mali, for lack of a better way of generalizing it, and furthering development by what revolutionary people I love in DC and Providence call “gender-fucking” things up.  They organize take-your-daughters-to-work days, retreats, and weeks, where girls meet female professionals, have pampering sessions just focused on them, dance, and celebrate being womyn and think about their futures and going to school, and learn things they can say and do if their parents think they should stop going to school at any point.  And they do loads of other things.  And I’ve had loads of conversations about gender here that give me incredible hope for womyn in Mali and get me excited about its possible future.  But, like Thomas L. Friedman says in Hot Flat and Crowded, it’s going to be hard work to get there, for something that won’t show results for awhile.  People have to be committed to change, and that commitment in many is what’s lacking right now.  It makes the conversations I have and actions I make at all times, especially as a womyn here, of the utmost importance in getting people to see how things can be different.  There is hope.
But, in village, I’ve seen several things.  It starts with how children are treated based on gender.  Children here in general aren’t treated all too great.  They are allowed to bathe only when their parents want them to be, which isn’t usually more frequently, as I’ve seen, than twice a week.  They aren’t allowed to use latrines until they’re about 10-years old, which means that they have to do all their business outside, and also means that there is humyn waste sitting outside and being wafted up by dust onto food, and causing numerous parasites and bouts of diarrhea for everyone in the village.  They are not allowed to eat on chairs when eating food—which means that I let girls sit on chairs who eat with me when no adult is around for the meal, and they feel spectacularly special.  In general, a childhood in my village is really different than it is in the US.  To quote another volunteer in Sikasso, my region I work in in Mali,
These kids can’t write numbers.  So I try to have them trace mine, and they’re 8 or 9, so they’ve been in school, and they can’t copy my numbers.  So I try to have them doodle, like a smiley face, and stuff like that.  And they can’t even do that!  It’s like, what do I do to give you a childhood of doodling back?  And now you can’t write?
It’s difficult to say that children aren’t treated well at all, because they’re arguably allowed to play a lot more freely than kids in the US.  I mean, they play with anything they want, and as long as they don’t piss off adults around them, they can do it for as long as they want.  I mean, everything from soccer balls, to tires, literally to knives and fire.  Kids are also, though, expected to do far more than kids in the US far earlier, like be the exclusive caretaker of younger children for hours at a time by the time they’re 7.  And that is where gender comes in.
There’s an 8-year old girl I’ve become friends with named Warsa.  Warsa loves that she gets to sit in my chair, and I can see that she feels like a million dollars as she trips animatedly over her words in broken Bambara and Senufokan about loads of things I can’t understand, until the 20th word or so when I ask for clarification and then let her run off into the conversation sunset of her dreams.  The one thing she does always say that I can make out, though, is something to the effect of,
“Eh, n ka baara ka ca!” (G-d, I gotta lotta work!)
Why, you might ask?  Because she is either pounding corn, rice, millet, or sorghum with an effing mallet almost half her size for hours every day, helping cook, or out getting firewood with the older womyn.  She’s not at school—she’s not old enough to have started yet.  She just works all day, enough, to tell me how much work she has as a primary topic of conversation, sit back in my chair, and say her back, it hurts, it really hurts. 
Now, Warsa is not, from what I have seen, and she lives with me, abused; she seems to be treated like every other girl I see in every family in my village.  She goes to the bathroom outside, like boys, but wakes up at least an hour earlier to do it, so that she can help her mother/s work after her mother gets up, hours before her father will get up.  She doesn’t shower either, but works all day long in what I would consider hard labour, and is therefore dirtier than boys her age who also don’t shower.  And, in my village, by the time Warsa is 14 or 15-years old, it is incredibly likely that she will get married off to a man in another village, because that is how marriages work here: you are married to another man (unless you have a pretty affluent background, your marriage is arranged, which is not inandofitself problematic, as many of my friends’ family members had arranged marriages and love their spouses, but frequently does result in what I have seen are marriages that feel more forced than loving in the long run), move to their village away from your family, and stay there for the rest of your life, unless, G-d forbid, you get divorced, at which point you are most likely going to be semi-excommunicated from your family anyway. 
It starts when boys are the only ones in village that yell at me—my name, greetings over and over again, after I have responded, and seemingly heckle me unless adults, especially men, are with me—and run away laughing afterwards, and girls stay silent and only look on in seeming awe of me.  It starts when your average family does not send their daughters to school if they don’t have the money (all schools here cost at least a small amount of money to attend), but usually seem to find the money for their sons to go.  And this includes my homeologue Diakaliah’s family.  His daughter, Aramatu, will, as he said, “…help [me] with anything, always, whenever [I] need it,” but will not be going to school, because she’s 11-years old now, and she’s “too old” to start school at this point.  “Money wasn’t around before,” he’s said.  “And now,” I asked, “It is?  All of your children are in school?”  “Yes,” he responds.  “Besides Aramatu?”  “Yes,” he responds.
It evolves into the younger wives doing the majority of housework.  Now, note: it may seem as though, from the tone of what I hold in this post, I think polygamy is wrong.  This is not true.  In fact, I believe that polyamory, or loving/being in relationships with many people at once, while it might not be something I see work all the time, is, like all sexual practices, fine as long as it is healthy for all people involved.  I do think, though, when there is a cultural precedent that allots men wives and assigns womyn all work that does not make money, such that men must be consulted before all monetary decisions and therefore hold all power and final word on womyns’ actions once they are married off and must leave their villages, that polygamy ends up reinforcing ideas that are disenfranchising, sexist, and most importantly work against womyns’ health.  How is a womyn to make healthy decisions for herself when her life is dictated by a man who, at least 95% of the time I have seen in conversations, believes that a man’s word is final and men know best? 
Anyways, younger womyn, especially second, third, and fourth wives, do the hardest and longest work of all womyn in their married-into families.  To quote another volunteer:
So this guy, who was trying to piss me off because they know in my village what makes me angry and what I think is wrong, tells me he wants to find a good girl who’s 16.  And he’s like, 45, right?  And I say, ‘So, you want a slave?’  There are other men around us, and he asks me what I mean.  I say, ‘Because, once she moves into your house, she’ll do all the work for your other wives, all the time.  She’ll be your slave.  You’re saying you want that.’  And the other men say, ‘Yeah, you are saying that!’
It continues to the conversation I observed after a womyn had given birth in the maternity.  Between her family members and Mariam, my matrone, these womyn say, “And it’s absurd that they say that if a womyn dies, a man needs more wives to continue taking care of the house, but if the man dies, the womyn can ‘just be married off to someone else,’ and it’s fine.  And they say that’s why men need many wives.  It’s absurd.”  Which, by the way, was exactly my question during training on “gender roles” during my Pre-Service Training prior to becoming a volunteer here!  And I got laughed at by the man I asked the question to.  He said that womyn just “don’t have that problem.”  And womyn would not have these conversations if men were present.  Just as womyn do not speak when men are around.  Men speak, at a minimum, for at least 75% of all conversations I observe with womyn, even if I can see that they respect the womyn they are speaking to, listening to them, and greeted them before speaking to them genuinely.  My matrone Mariam gets bowed to by younger womyn (womyn in my village, and frequently in Sikasso, bow to men when greeting them before speaking to them), because she is incredibly respected.  But she will not speak nearly as much in the presence of another man.  Womyn will rarely offer their opinions around men in conversations I’ve seen. 
I want to reiterate, there are vast differences between my village and villages only an hour’s travel away.  But that does not change the ramifications that tradition has on gender roles that I must consider how to face and work against to help people be healthier. 
Along those lines, like I said, not every day is a gendered horror story.  I had a lovely conversation, which I had thought was going to end horrendously, with Mariam’s husband, who is usually around for a couple nights a week and other nights “stays in Zegoua.”  It began with him telling me and repeating that men are the dugutikis, or “village chiefs,” of the family in Mali.  I responded by saying that I thought that when womyn and men work together in a marriage, both people are the “village chiefs” of their family.  He ended up saying that that was true.  He said that he “knew that womyn work more than men,” and thinks that womyn should go to school.  He agreed with me that, if womyns’ work was considered as highly as mens’, Mali would be a better place and develop quicker.
But I then discovered the same day from Mariam, after he left for Zegoua, that that was where his other wife lived. 
I don’t want to question his feminism.  I just question whether or not you can believe that someone believes in equal rights for men and womyn who, just before the aforementioned conversation, laughed hysterically and told me that I “couldn’t marry multiple men in Mali” when I asserted I wanted to, because it “just isn’t done.”  I also want to stress that I met his second wife the week before I left for this trip to Bamako and Sikasso that afforded me internet access.  And she had come to Ziangolodougou specifically to hang out for a day with Mariam.  So they have a relationship of their own that seems quite wonderful—their husband was not around the entire time she was there, and we danced, and we ate chocolate to celebrate Mariam’s upcoming birthday together (FYI, I insisted on doing this, because birthdays aren’t a Malian thing to celebrate—there’re so many kids, my matrone says, that it’s a little tough to keep up with all the birthdays when you gots a lotta work as a womyn…and I said, fair point).  So, I don’t want it to come across that I hold this deep contempt for her husband and her relationship with her husband.  Those can be good, I am sure, for them, if it is healthy.  But the cultural boundaries that form the basis for their relationship is what I worry about with all Malian romantic relationships engaged in polygamy, and something I think about often: are womyn perceived of emotionally as mens’ property and workers, and if so, how could this ever lead to healthy growth and love between people?  A sense of empowerment in one’s actions in life?  Societal changes come with time, and I can understand that industrialization brings some sense of important changes to be made—like better economy, tourism, and general finance—as well as another rivaling sense of this idea that changes are being imposed, and gosh-haven’t-we-lived-so-long-without-all-this-new-stuff, that means that people might think it’s kinda silly for me to talk about the importance of washing their hands when they’ve made it this long as Malians without doing it.  So, sexism and gender as an issue is gonna seem kind of quaint and removed from a lot of Malians, I can already imagine.  Because they have loving families, they would say, big families, and they all look out for each other in their communities, and families are the center of the culture here and of utmost importance.  And these are all, at least on some level, true assertions.  They don’t change the fact that the womyn I speak to about washing their hands with soap can’t do so until their husbands think it’s important enough for them to give their wives the money to buy the soap, and then use it when eating with their families, when womyn cannot eat from a bowl until after men are finished with their share.
Just like in the US, health is frequently damaged by the gender binary.  If people are seen hierarchically, someone has to always be the disadvantaged one, right?  With less possibilities to succeed.  Sexism was acknowledged in a loud way in the US in the 70s as preventing womyn from succeeding.  And today, I still talk about it all the time—did the Vagina Monologues (if you haven’t heard of it, look it up!  It’s all about expanding the dialogue on sexuality to actually include the consideration of anything vagina/womyn, to affirm womyns’ sexuality.  Problematic, at times, but important as a social cause and movement nonetheless.  I was “My Vagina is Angry,” which most people guess when they meet me, paha, and one of the womyn in the optional monologue “They Beat the Girl Out of My Boy.”), get viscerally angry when people catcall at me on the street, work on sexual assault and harassment with people all the time.  But here, it’s what I would call far more severe, and I am beginning to see it far more because I’m beginning to see it when people are sexist towards me.  I know that that’s selfish, but it’s true.  Your personal lens is how you notice the most first, right?  So, when only 10% of men greet me when they see me, in a culture where you’re supposed to great everyone upon walking up to them, I get pissed.  When men don’t look at me in conversation, I get pissed.  When men walk in front of me in all establishments to do their business first after looking at me over the shoulder and then looking away, I get pissed.  When policemen ask if “if they please me” sexually after I’ve met them, I get enraged.  When I’m asked to get water for men, and half-expected to bow to them as well (and holla back after this Purim, Mordechai, you didn’t bow to Hamann for thinking he was holier than thou, and I’m not bowing to men for being men!) upon presenting them their cup of water, I get infuriated.  And then, I see how womyn who are Malian get treated what I feel is much worse.  At least I can speak to men and have them listen to me, even if I might have to speak loudly several times before they’ll look at me.  And some men are incredibly respectful to me, and really want to know what I have to say, but I hear them yell at their wives or never speak with them at all.  Some men, again, I am sure, are feminists here, and I mean to say by “feminist” that they do not think that men deserve more of anything than womyn.  One Peace Corps driver literally told my site buddy,
I don’t get why men marry more than one wife.  I only have one wife.  I don’t think you can love more than one person. 
I’ve also spoken with my homeologue Diakaliah, like I said earlier, about FGM, and when I got nervous about cultural sensitivity around the ideas I had about how I could explain that it wasn’t healthy, I just said it.  He had explained that one NGO had been in village, and when I asked why, he said that they had talked about “la excision.”  When I asked if “it had worked,” he said that yes, it didn’t happen anymore to any girls (most likely untrue, but I would believe that it was not performed any more in my village, but rather out in the fields, still with a select few families, and otherwise, that the people in village were changing their minds about it, which is good as a start).  So I said, “You know, I’d thought that it’d be harder than that to stop, but it’s unhealthy for womyn.”  And he smiled and said, “Yes, c’est ca.” 
There are the people who get it here, who, as Mariam’s husband agreed with me on, haven’t traveled, but still see that something in Malian culture is a little off in catering to womyn being healthy.  I imagine this is just like how some people in the US see that something is off in our gender binary as well, and how even more wouldn’t have the conversation with someone about it, but think about it a fair chunk of their time.  Right now, I’m embarking on what I can see will be the most exciting adventure of my life: seeing how other people live for two years alongside them, exalting our lives together and talking about things that don’t work without fear of being rejected for it, learning to love something totally different and lovingly dissect it all at once.  Dissection is actually an interesting way to look at it: sometimes, I feel like the gender binary is a wild animal with rabies that eats peoples souls that I have to kill with my words in every conversation I have (see—this vegans’ violent!).  But, I digress from gender. 
As I said earlier, I have now seen two births.  Both were difficult to watch, for very different reasons.  I have a lot of respect for both womyn, and want to stress that from the very beginning.  But I couldn’t help but think about borders the entire time seeing them:
Between my body and theirs.
Between my definitions of normal and theirs.
Between my ideas of work and theirs. 
The first birth was by a womyn who was 20- or 21-years old, and it was her second child.  FYI, womyn here generally have their first kid at 17 or 18-years old, if they start at “a good time,” but I see as young as 15.  What customarily happens, supposedly, is both the delivering womyn’s mother and her husband’s mother come to the maternity, possibly with some other female family members, and wait outside of the delivery room where Mariam waits while she goes through the first contractions, walks around with them, and waits in mostly silence until the contractions get hard enough that she finally “needs help,” essentially.  I said this before, but to reiterate, Malian womyn are not supposed to make any noise while in labour.  This means screams, moans, anything outside of asking, “Am I done?” and “It’s about to happen, please help me.”  I want you to think, business casual.  This birth was literally the most ‘professional’ that a birth could get.  The womyn kicked her legs out to help the delivery come along, paced the rooms—obviously in pain, but just taking deep breaths when a contraction clearly came—and ate when her family members brought in food for her.  FYI, there were no injections, no medicines I saw given.  Which, as a totally different conversation, is something I think should happen all the time unless a birth will plausibly have complications such as twins or when happening with a womyn over the age of 40, or the womyn really want to be knocked out, but I digress.  No medical interventions.  And I watched for 5 hours as this womyn’s contractions got more and more intense.  Mariam watched but also would check her cellphone for the time, nap, or talk to me about random things—jokes, whether or not I would go to the market that Saturday—in hushed voices while we waited for “it to start.”  And the whole time we’re talking, I’m consciously freaking out.
See, the only time before this that I’d seen a birth was in my 9th grade health class, where the teacher had said, “Now, kids, get prepared for this,” smiled, and then skipped to the middle of this white womyn giving birth with the horrible narrator from the 70s saying, “And now, she is getting ready for the miracle of life!”  And then, my teacher watched all of the boys say “Oh, G-d, disgusting!,” and all the girls say, “Oh my G-d!,” and my teacher laughed hysterically, and then paused the video on the womyn’s vagina when it stretched, and laughed at us being disgusted—all encouraged, basically—and then rewinded the video and played it again, just the birth, and laughed hysterically as we urged her, really, Miss, can you please turn it off?!  And then she said, “So, you really don’t want that to happen to you right now, do you?”
So, the female body had been demonized, thing-ified and shown as a freak circus side show to all of us as a warning not to do something that is beautiful: a. have sexual interactions, and b. deliver life.  And now, I was in a room with a womyn who was going to do it, in silence, as if it’s all in her head and she’s got to do this with a grace of a ballerina—and G-d, is she graceful, and G-d, is she powerful—and my matrone is straight chilling, asking me about what I ate that day!  It’s the most relaxed room that I thought could ever contain such an extreme experience. 
And I start to see blood coming down this womyn’s leg.  And she’s on the floor when the contractions begin to get more intense.  Why is she on the floor?  “Because of the wound,” Mariam says.  And Mariam is a great person, don’t get me wrong.  But even in this relaxed room, with these womyn who might be disrespected elsewhere but know about birth, respect birth, have many births in their lifetimes and know how painful they can be and believe children are wonderful, even in this room, this womyn is seen as having a “wound” between her legs.  And she’ll get the three perfectly clean and comfortable mattresses in the next room “dirty” with her “wound.”   So she’ll give birth on a tarp on the cement floor.  And we will tell her when she starts to whimper that she has to be “strong,” she’s “done this before,” and just “push.”
I’m getting faint.  I get nervous.  This womyn is bleeding and just wiping it off her legs with a pagne, a fabris you wrap around your legs as a skirt here.  And she’s just pacing and waiting until the labour starts.  And she says it’s starting, and Mariam calls the other womyn in and sits with her on the floor. 
She says “ton so, ton so kadi” (Push, push well), and then “tuguni” (again), and then “ton so kadi, kadi” and then, “n be se k’a ye, ton so” (I can see the child, push).  And the womyn is being held by her mother, in between her legs, to prop her up as she pushes, and she’s in so much pain, you can see it, but she’s not making a noise, maybe some light moaning you could mistake for a sigh, and that’s it.  And she pushes.
And I’m nervous, because I’m nervous to see FGM.  And I hate admitting that to myself.  Because, you see, ever since I came here, I’ve been painfully aware of my capacity, like America’s historically proven capacity, to thing-ify womyn and their bodies.  Especially the black female body, and black body in general (if you want to read a really good book about this, my site buddy reminded me of this book called “Killing the Black Body.”  It’s worth checking out the summary on Amazon at a minimum).  And I didn’t want to thing-ify Malian womyns’ bodies based on my problems with the practice of FGM in the ways I have described above—as a practice that hurts womyn and their health.  You see, womyns’ vaginas can literally tear open during labour, depending on infections and how much was cut off and in what way during the ‘procedure.’  It makes it painful and dangerous.  Womyn can die from complications of FGM during the ‘procedure,’ in the months after, years later, and during childbirth.  And you could also just have complications that make it hurt when you pee for the rest of your life. 
But those reasons should not be ones that make me afraid to see someone’s vagina.  First off, I shouldn’t be afraid to look at someone’s body as a health volunteer at health clinics if I am a welcome part of these appointments and medical happenings, which I was.  The womyn was fine with me being there—she knew me and knew the type of work I’m there to do for the next 2 years in our village, and we greeted each other—while she was pacing these rooms, having contractions, and gosh, I wouldn’t have been so nice!—and I was welcome there.  So, the humyn body is beautiful, and not disgusting, ever.  But especially not because of a violent practice done to it.  I never wanted to conflate FGM and the body that is subjected to it.  I didn’t want to participate in this thing-ifying.  The female body is beautiful before, during, and after FGM.  The power of womyn does not change.  But I was afraid of seeing a womyn after it, afraid to see a “mutilated” vagina, a vagina that had been “ruined,” “cut,” in a way “taken away” from its owner.  I thought it would look disgusting.  And I hated that, that I had this idea that my vagina, that womyns’ vaginas that didn’t go through FGM, were the normal ones.  The ones with good vaginas, happy vaginas, ones that were better than the ones in this country I’m living in now.  One, obviously, these womyn are people, not just their vaginas.  Two, their vaginas should obviously not be subjected to norms, they are just their vaginas.  There is not criterion anyone should use to measure how “good” a vagina is.  So, I felt that I should not scrutinize womyns’ vaginas and just be supportive in any way I could during the birth, but I couldn’t stop thinking about it, and I didn’t want to look, but I didn’t want to catch eyes with her (the womyn delivering) and have her see that I was looking away, nervous, any more scared that she might be.
So, I look because she’s taken the pagne from her legs and Mariam says “n be se k’a ye, ton so, a be na” (I can see it, push, it’s coming).  And I see this little tuft of hair, and it’s getting bigger, and it coming, and it’s her child’s head.  And I’m amazed: Oh my G-d, this womyn is creating a life!  It’s coming out of her, she’s doing it, she’s making someone be!  And then I see that she has no clitoris, and I want to cry.  And I hate myself for it: why do I have to take away from the power of what this womyn is doing by scrutinizing what might have been her sexual experiences, what I think is what “should” be, what I think was taken from her when, in reality, she might never think about it, and if she thinks nothing was taken away from her in the first place, why am I forcing that victimization onto her in my head?  But I’m frightened by not seeing her clitoris, or her inner labia, because it seems wrong to me, and I’ve taught sexual anatomy and I’ve done the naked party circuit in college, and this is not what I thought birth “should look like.”  But it’s happening, and she’s not making a sound, and this baby is coming into the world, and it’s a beautiful womyn, it’s what I need to think is a beautiful act, a beautiful body, a beautiful experience, and push my biases and thing-ifying aside. 
And the baby comes, after one strong push, it slides out of this womyn as if it is the easiest thing in the world.  And the womyn falls back into her mother’s hands.  And Mariam gathers the baby in her hands, and ties a string around the umbilical chord, and twists it, and it breaks, and the baby’s brought to the table, and wrapped in yet another pagne.  And I want to cry, because it’s so overwhelmingly beautiful, everything that this womyn, that these womyn, have just done together, with no one else around, this feat with no press, no seeming urgency to document it besides Mariam asking me the time and writing it down on a slip of paper, no crowds, nothing.  Just us in a room with the courage it takes to bring someone into the world.  And then, I almost faint.  Colours start to distort.  I sit down and try not to vomit.  Maybe it was too much blood for me to see, too new, too overwhelming emotionally, but I feel weak.  So I sit, but the womyn pushes again.  And I think, after-birth, I’ve heard of this, it must be after-birth.  And what she pushes out looks big, and it is big, and Mariam says, “Eh, a to, den were” (G-d, the rest, the other child).  And she says, “filaniw tun be” (They were twins).  And I realize, after asking several questions fairly quickly and out of the mother’s earshot, two things:
  1. The womyn had been pregnant with twins.  Twins are delivered here by midwives, and it is not considered to be a high-risk pregnancy that might require medical interventions.  Mariam had known she would have twins, which is rare here, because she’d done all this womyns’ prenantal exams. 
  2. One twin had died 3 days before.  Something had happened with her placenta, so they’d both known it had died.  And that twin died why?  “She had been sick, sick with a fever.”
So I see the other twin.  It’s small, dead, and other big things that I assume are actually the after birth are wrapped around it, and it’s on the tarp on the floor, and I can’t help but stare at it.  The womyn isn’t looking at it—she isn’t looking at anything, she’s exhausted.  And I can’t stop looking back to this other baby on the table, wrapped up and fresh and pretty clean, new, crying, discovering the world for the first time.  On one side of me, life.  On the other side, it feels like a waste, a mistake, a tragedy no one wants to pay attention to.  I feel bad for this womyn—she had known she would birth a child that was already dead for 3 days on the same day she would birth a healthy baby—what I see is a healthy baby boy.  But she did so, in silence, no complaints.  And I ask if the baby will have a ceremony since it died, and I’m trying not to cry—I don’t cry until I get to Mariam’s house afterward and go to her latrine—and she says no, “We don’t give ceremonies when they’re this young.”  Old people get ceremonies.  They would bury this child, but they wouldn’t have a ceremony.  Just like in the US, people don’t know what to do when children die.  It’s horrible, it’s really sad, and then we try to forget about it and move on.
And I sit for the rest of the time, watch the womyn walk into the next room to sit on the floor again, watch Mariam tidy up the baby a bit, watch the family members follow this womyn into the next room, sit on the mattresses, talk jovially, it’s a beautiful day and a child was born.  But I keep thinking, what if this womyn had gone to Zegoua, my market town, where there’s a clinic and doctors and maybe different medicines she could’ve taken, would the child have lived?  Mariam says “peteti, an t’a don” (Maybe, we don’t know).
The second birth was something I expected to be quick, like the first, after the contractions quickened, but it was totally different.  The womyn comes into the maternity—this is 3 days or so after the first birth I saw—at 9am.  She’s nowhere close to birthing, “just scared,” Mariam says.  She leaves and comes back later, and around 7pm, after I take my nightly shower, Diakaliah comes to tell me to go to the Maternity again, this womyn will deliver soon.  So, all fresh, having eaten dinner, I go out in my village for the first time at night.  At this point, I’ve only had my puppy, Guacamole, for 3 days, and I get sad leaving him in my patio for a couple hours, but he needs to get used to sleeping alone, so I go (I’ll talk more about Guacamole, the cutest thing in the world, in another post that’s a little less serious, paha). 
I get there at 7:30pm.  We go to Mariam’s house for some force-fed second dinner (Mariam never takes no for an answer with me and food), and then go back.  It’s 10pm.  Nowhere close to birthing, but I can see, the womyn’s in a lot of pain—the contractions are really tough with her.  She’s 22-years old, my age, and it’s also her second child.  My matrone brings out a mattress from the third room, the baby-weighing/prenatal consultation room, and we sleep on it together outside the maternity (hot season was starting at this point, and yes, it’s now far hotter than you could care to imagine).  And I had put on some roll-on mosquito repellent beforehand, thank G-d, but that doesn’t fend off the large roaches roaming on and around me at times, and it’s 4 interesting hours.  And then, the womyn says she needs Mariam’s help, and her whimpering’s a little loud, and Mariam says it’s time.
It was four hours until the birth happened.  With the first womyn, from the time she started pushing to the birth of the first child, it took about half an hour.  So, you have to understand, I was shocked it took four hours.  But, far more shocking, is that this womyn didn’t follow the cultural silence rule—she moaned, and screamed, for hours. 
Now, every culture has people on the fringe.  You hear about it, remark upon it, and see it all the time.  Womyn who wear tuxedos, have many sexual partners, or play rugby are all good examples.  Outside the norms, and unashamedly there to stay.  This womyn was doing that, in a way I hadn’t even heard of before.  She was breaking a really serious cultural rule.
They say you shouldn’t “make noise” during birth here for two reasons:
  1. If you make noise, you’ll attract bad spirits and energy to the event and semi-curse it/the child’s life.
  2. It’s nothing to make noise over.  It’s “just” birth.  Real womyn don’t cry during it.  They just do it.
The way people cry out in my village (I’m not sure if this is a Senufo thing or not) is by saying, “Whoa-ee.”  So, this womyn is moaning, screaming, Whoa-ee, whoa-eeeee, and crying at times, and saying she “can’t, can’t do this.”  And she’s so, so scared.  You can tell.  And if she had been less scared, the birth would have been much easier, because, to quote Mariam, “If you don’t do this, where will the baby go?  It has to come out!  So you have to do this!”  It’s scary, but it has to happen.  There’s just no real way around it.  And once you give birth, the pain will stop, your baby will be out, and you’ll be done and happy and exhausted but with child.  So, you have to do it and just trust that it’ll be better after you do it.  But she’s paralyzed with fear, and she cries, and her mother (her husband’s mother left during the day) gets incredibly angry with her, as does Mariam, but to a lesser degree.  They’re angry, because they tell her to stop moaning and crying, but she doesn’t.  And she reaches out to them, for physical support, to hold her hand, and says she can’t do this, and just wants it to stop.  And they both physically and emotionally turn away from her.  And there I am, plopped on the table right in front of her, grating my teeth every time she pushes finally, trying to almost push with her, will the baby out, but there’s nothing I can do.  I’m not trained as a doula or midwife, I don’t speak Bambara well enough to say what one should say on the fly while a womyn is having a tough birthing experience, and I damn well don’t know the scant cultural protocol there might be in these types of situations that rarely happen.  I.e., do I support her?  If so, how?  What will Mariam say or think?  Will I be allowed to see another birth again?  What does it mean to people in the community if I hold her hand?  I want to support her, but I also know that she needs to give birth, we’re all tired, and we all want it to be over with, and they’re angry with her, and it has this social effect where I’m getting angry too.  And I catch myself, and think, Who am I?  ‘Labour’ is called ‘labour’ for a reason!  Womyn should make noise during it if they need to! But then I think, why is she so scared?  Like Mariam keeps saying, you’ve done this before!  Do it again!  Just push!
Four hours is a long time to be thinking these things and seeing this womyn go through them over and over again.  She ends up crying so loudly for so long, that her husband comes to the front of the maternity.  The womyn is there.  She’s out there because she’s been trying to leave the delivery room several times, as if she can leave and go home and this would all stop, this birth, if only she could walk.  And she’s moaning loudly, and her mother is yelling at her, and Mariam is just waiting, distancing herself and resigned somewhat, ignoring her calls for help and wanting her to come back inside.  Men don’t ever go into the maternity, so he conveniently talks to her outside.  He reprimands her, and I’ll never forget what he says:
What are you doing?  The people in the village can hear you screaming.  People are telling me they are hearing you scream, “whoa-ee,” “whoa-ee,” and it’s embarrassing.  What are you doing?  Stop this now!  Are you serious?  Stop! 
And she’s publicly shamed into silence.  And her mother and Mariam say, “You see?!  Are you serious?  Stop screaming!  Just do it!  And it’ll be over with!”  And she trudges back, ashamedly, but tired, so tired, into the delivery room.
She vomits.  This birth is really hard on her.  And she starts to moan again.  She just wants to go to sleep, she’s so tired, she keeps saying.  And I believe her.  This is hard work she’s been doing, and the contractions started 20 hours ago.  She looks out to me again and again at this point, looks right into my eyes, and says, “This is hard.  This is hard.”  She almost smiles, and the Mariam and her mother laugh at her, and try to include me in her laughter: Is she serious? they keep on asking me, trying to get me to corroborate in the public shaming.
They’re publicly shaming a womyn in labour.  They want this to be a group effort.  If only she can see how ridiculous she’s being, she’ll give birth and it’ll be over.  I can tell that’s the general mood and gist of things that night.
I tell her when they’ve left the room in frustration with her, left her alone with her moans and screams, “I ka kan k’a ke, ni I b’a ke, a be na ban, nga I ka kan k’a ke folo” (You have to do this, if you do this, it’ll end, but you have to do it first).  I don’t know if she understands Bambara, or my Bambara specifically.  But I feel like I have to say something.
The husband comes back to the front of the maternity and says to Mariam, “If it’s this hard, maybe we should just take her to Zegoua.”  In Zegoua’s clinic, they can’t do a c-section (they can in another town a little further away called Kadiolo), but they have a trained midwife, and more importantly, as Mariam tells the womyn angrily, “They won’t be like me.  You won’t be able to scream.  So do you want to do this here and now, or go there?!”  Well, especially when you threaten her like that, no, she doesn’t want to go to Zegoua.  She moans some more, but she wants to give birth here, she says. 
The baby comes at 6:10am.  I force myself to stay until the end, because I want everyone to see that I stuck out this hard night with them, that I care about womyns’ health, that I care about the births and the full experience.  We were all in this together.  But I was disgusted.  The womyn stamped out her leg once the baby came out, in pain, but near it’s body, and Mariam’s smacked her fairly hard on the leg, saying “Where do you think the baby is, huh?”  And don’t get me wrong, she really shouldn’t step on her newborn child, but her mother had hit her too toward the end.  They were done with her.  She was so far gone, they thought, and didn’t deserve respect anymore.  After all that, we could maybe just “slap some sense into her,” it seemed like they thought.

This post was incredibly long, and has a lot to think about.  It’s probably going to be the primary focus of my service here for the next 22 months (every 7th of every month, light a candle for me being awesome and being here another whole month of service on this lil’ journey o’ mine!): gender and development is easily one of the most important things to work on for the next several centuries in our world.  How do we show girls that they can do anything boys can do if they really want to, and give them the opportunities to do so?  I guess I wanted to end on this final thought:
This womyn screamed her truth, and it was like the village split open.  I’ve seen her once afterward, from behind, riding home on her bicycle.  I spoke about her birth, much to my disgust with myself but out of a felt need to discuss an experience like that with Mariam the next day just to check in and make sure it was as hard to some extent for her as it was for me.  And I spoke about it in front of my other pregnant friends with Mariam.  I said, “And she screamed!  It was crazy!”  I wanted to see what they would say.  My pregnant friends were really surprised, but you could see that they were a little afraid too, as if they were thinking, Oh G-d, what if I scream a little?  Mariam just said, “She’s not a real person.  Who does that?  Wow, that was hard!”  It’s like a joke to her to some extent now, because I’ve told her, after that last birth, night births aren’t for me for awhile.  And she’ll laugh hysterically.
This womyn screamed until the cultural silence surrounding birth split open.  Is that good or bad?  Can her birth be beautiful in culturally restrained silence? 
How do we give womyn the space to tell their truths?  And what truths do we expect, or want, them to tell?  And why those ones?  And maybe they’re already telling them, and maybe lots of people are listening, slowly, more and more, and picking up the layers and characters and languages and landscapes and everything, just everything, and hearing those truths, maybe the world’s changing.  But maybe we just aren’t listening for the truths.  Or maybe womyn have been forced to be silent so long, they don’t know what truths to tell.
I hope one day I see the world split open.  I don’t know what that will look like, but I know it should mean that something changes, and womyn and men are all treated like people.

Before I end this post, I just wanted to put out an honourable mention I mentioned earlier to the various places I’ve worked with that do amazing work on sexual rights for everyone.  The world isn’t hopeless; quite to the contrary, loads of people are doing things every day to try and change how violent we are towards womyn. 
Places I’ve done work at that deserve honourable mention!:
DC Rape Crisis Center, NW Washington, DC
Metro Teen AIDS, NW Washington, DC
Day One Sexual Assault and Resource Center, Providence, RI
Womyn’s Center Rhode Island, East Providence, RI
Sexual Health And Peer Education, Providence, RI

Later, populace.